After noticing a leak in my sewer drain pipe in my basement, I've decided to replace all plumbing, since a plumber pointed out to me last year when I bought my house (1950) that the drains were all clogged very badly.

I figured this was the time since I now have a leak. Problem is I have a drain pipe that runs approx 4 feet off of floor in my basement.

I purchased a new HE washer when I bought my home and the installers used the old set up which was attached directly to a 2" drain pipe with a coupling.

After research, I came to find that there should be a stand pipe with this machine ( whirlpool cambrio). I ran 2" pipe all around that leads to a 10" stand pipe that then leads to a 4" sewer drain pipe that leads out of the house. I ran a small load of wash to test pipes and all was good. I then ran a larger load and it all over flowed out of the stand pipe and flooded my basement.

The pipe after the stand pipe is about 10 " as well and I later noticed that the pipe has a slight increase in it's slope leading to the 4" pipe.

I plan on re-doing stand pipe and pipe that follows, but

  • do I need to raise the washer to accommodate a longer stand pipe since the main drain runs 4' off the floor?
  • Will the increase in that 10 " pipe cause the overflow?
  • Should I even use a stand pipe or connect the washer drain hose directly to the 2" drain pipe.

Now toilet gurgles.

  • 1
    Editing a diagram (or good photos) into the question might help people to understand and answer. If you add URLs for images else where, someone will edit them into the Q (if you lack rep-points to do so yourself) Commented Jan 3, 2014 at 10:50
  • Yes, a diagram would help. But it sounds like the 4" pipe is blocked. But it could also be that there is insufficient venting of one of the pipes.
    – sborsher
    Commented Jan 9, 2014 at 20:37

1 Answer 1


I don't quite follow your description, the standpipe configuration might be part of the problem. The gurgling toilet indicates a venting problem, I don't think it would contribute to overflowing, but it is a problem. As mentioned, a photo or diagram is needed for better assessment. My intent is to describe a proper washer installation and address how the height plays into it.

There are all sorts of variations for pipe configurations, this one is very typical. The washer drain ties into the 4" horizontal pipe with a vertical 4x4x2 LTTY (long turn tee-wye). It can be installed flat to gain some vertical, at the cost of an extra ell that introduces a potential clog point.

From the LTTY is a vertical 2" pipe as short as possible before connecting to a 2" sanitary tee. A 2" vertical pipe continues up to tie into the venting system. The vent could be reduced to 1.5" if need be. The side inlet of the santee takes a 2" horizontal (2% slope actually) trap arm. There is a length limit, but it's rather long, it's best to keep it rather short. The trap arm connects to a 2" trap assembly. The trap inlet accepts a 2" vertical stand pipe.

The stand pipe must be a minimum 18" high, straight up, no bends. You cannot connect a washer discharge directly to a closed drain system. There must be an overflow provision such as an open stand pipe. I prefer to see about a 24" stand pipe, but 18" is a code requirement.

This gives you about a 24-30 inch tall stand pipe/trap assembly on top of the 48" height of the main drain, so a total 6-6.5 feet off the floor. Washers have a limit of how high they can pump discharge water. The installation instructions should tell you this somewhere. If not, you may need to contact the manufacturer. If your washer can pump up to the top of the stand pipe while sitting on the floor, you're all set. If not, you will need a platform that raises the washer to within the allowable discharge height.

If you still get overflowing with a proper standpipe-trap configuration, then the main line remains obstructed somewhere.

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