How do I replace this toilet shutoff valve?

Question

I need to replace a toilet shutoff valve (does not completely stop water flow) as part of process of fixing a leak I saw around the base of my toilet (suspect i need new wax ring??). I bought a new 1/4 turn shut off valve and turned off the main supply, but was not able to remove the old valve.

I believe it's because this valve is soldered on and thus can not be screwed on/off and replaced as such? Is there another way to go about this, aside from cutting pipe and soldering (no torch, saw, experience...). Wondering is there is an additional valve i could install further down the line to the toilet (realizing this is not the best method)? Also, am i correct this is steel piping not copper?

Answer 1

That's most likely a copper pipe covered in solder. You can try scraping the solder off to see if you get down to some copper to verify. A copper pipe cutter is cheap and easy to use:

Get this onto the pipe a close to the valve as you can, tighten the screw until it's snug, and spin it around the pipe making sure to keep spinning on the same location (you're making a cut, not treading the pipe or making a spiral). After every few turns, tighten the screw a little more and eventually the pipe will break off. Clean the pipe with some emery paper, and install a new compression style valve (this only requires a few wrenches (crescent or fixed, not a pipe wrench or pliers if you want to avoid teeth marks). If you removed too much of the pipe, you may need to replace the escutcheon with a flatter style.

Answer 2

I don't actually think it's all that obvious from the picture just what you have; and if I had to guess, I say something chrome plated, not solder over copper, unless it was soldered within the last week. Too uniform and shiny to my eye. Pull the escutcheon out and take another picture to provide more data for guessing...and try a magnet if you think it might be steel or iron, but my money is on threaded chromed brass, pretty typical for bathroom fixtures. If pulling the escutcheon out continues the same color (allowing for dirt) all the way to the wall, my confidence increases that that's what you have. If it changes color drastically then copper looks more likely.

As for it not unthreading - well, that happens. There's limited access behind a toilet, so you can't swing a big wrench, it's wet quite a lot of the time from condensation in the summer (most climates) plus any leakage, and it doesn't get moved for decades at a time. Harsh cleaners can add to the corrosion potential. Determination, penetrating oil and heat can all help, but sometimes all that happens is the pipe snaps off. The Joy of Plumbing.

If it was a typical soldered copper pipe and you actually tried to unthread it with the force typically needed to unthread a threaded connection that has sat for a few years, the pipe would have twisted flat, in my experience. So sorting out what it really is probably beats just taking a wrench to it. The area very near the wall is a fine place to scrape, scratch or even lightly file to help sort out what it is, if it's not obvious from just pulling out the cover - you won't be making a compression connection that far back.

Answer 3

THE VALVE'S SIDES SHOW ITS A SCREW ON TYPE.. NO ONE WOULD (NEED) SOLDER IT ON. TRY to see the ending threads on the pipe. I use a sharp curved awl to also probe for them. Then soak the threads with a good penetrating oil. The longer time soaking, the better, and periodically tap on it with a hammer. When you unscrew it with the longest wrench available, hold the pipe solidly (vice grips, etc.) or you may easily unscrew it from the wall. However that may be okay, and even better, if the water is shut off. An additional loosening technique is to quickly focus heat on the valve threads so the pipe's threads are not heated as much. Then quickly try unscrewing the valve before it cools much. I like using a small lighter/torch, or a good soldering iron. Once you beat this, your diy confidence will be justifiably stronger.