I'm about to begin setting all of my terminal posts for a chain link fence. However, upon digging the post hole for the terminal post that goes up against the house, I ran into a possible problem. After digging about 12 inches down, I ran into concrete ( I assume this is from the garage's foundation and perhaps the basement as well), and it runs away from the house for about 11 inches. That means between the terminal post and the house would be an eleven inch gap. The fence is intended to keep the dogs inside, and that gap would be too much of a problem.

The fence fabric is 48" in height, and the post is 72". The terminal post needs to be 50" above ground with the remaining 22" buried. Do any of you have any suggestions on how to approach this situation?


3 Answers 3


I had the same situation at my place, I set the post and ran the top rail past it to the house and set elbows to make a hoop to carry the chain link past the post. I did not want to screw anything to the house so I rebent wall brackets to clamp the top and bottom rails to the line postDog pen

  • Hmm, that is one solution. Although, I suppose that means you used a line post and not a terminal post there, correct?
    – thtsigma
    Nov 19, 2013 at 4:13
  • Yes I did, it only has to support the weight of the fence, which is pretty light, no need for the heavy weight post, at least for me it was, there is no way anything can push on it hard enough to bend it, and it is set in concrete.
    – Jack
    Nov 20, 2013 at 3:46
  • I'd be very cautious about attaching anything to the house. The previous owners of our old place had a deck attached to the rim joist without flashing and the rim joist rotted out. Very important that moisture not be trapped against the siding! Nov 7, 2014 at 16:21
  • Agreed, especially larger areas that are difficult to dry out, exacerbated by all the fasteners to hold the deck. I usually put 1 1/2"X 3/4" thick spacers between my deck when the siding allows for it. That way there is only a little space that needs to dry out. I don't do that on every occasion, different siding requires different means of securing and preventing decay, This is not on point. Back to the point, the small footprint made by the clamp, the few holes needed to hold it in place, the possibility of placing them under the lap of the siding and sealant will insure a weatherproof seal
    – Jack
    Nov 7, 2014 at 18:52

One way to do it would be to cut terminal post off by the extra 10 inches, setting it in concrete on top of the footing concrete, and attaching the post to the house with 180 degree chain link brace bands. Or, you could nail a 2x6 to the house and attach the brace bands to it.

Alternately, you could put the terminal post at the edge of the footing concrete, pull your wire taut to there, then add another post up against the house. The wire to this post would not be carrying any tension, so you could set it at 12 inches, cutting off the excess.

  • I wouldn't nail a 2x6 or anything else to the house. Our previous place had a deck attached to the rim joist without flashing and the rim joist rotted out at that point. It's very important that moisture be able to escape! I like your "Alternately" answer. Nov 7, 2014 at 16:19

Get EYE bolts with lag threads, drive at least 3 of them into the corner of the house, run the tension bar through the fence and them, Secure and looks good, I used stainless steel for longevity. If you need to you can attach a 2x4 or 4x4 to the corner like I had to on one corner because the foundation was too tall so there was too much of a gap from where the bottom eye bolt would have been, so I lag bolted a 4x4 to the corner and then the eye bolts to that, mainly because I have very large dogs and don't want any week spots.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.