I put a nipple on the end of a garden hose. It leaks when I close the valve at the other end of the hose.

I have pushed the hose all the way up the nipple. It's sealed really tight. I could barely get it off. I have tried using one and two hose clamps to seal it even tighter, without any success. What should I do?

The nipple and hose look like these:

enter image description here

enter image description here

  • 1
    If you were able to get if off without cutting the hose, you probably bought the wrong size.
    – Jason
    Commented Sep 26, 2013 at 18:59
  • 1
    The picture of the 'nipple' you posted is not a barbed hose adaptor. It is a PEX by MIP (male iron pipe thread) adaptor. So if that is what your adaptor is, then that would be your problem.
    – pdd
    Commented Sep 26, 2013 at 19:07
  • How about posting some in-focus pictures, some of the hose your are working with and some of the nipple that you are using, and some of the leak itself.
    – mike
    Commented Sep 26, 2013 at 21:38
  • Can you post a picture of the nipple / hose joint where it is leaking? Is it possible that it is leaking at the threaded end of the nipple and dripping down to the area of the clamped hose making one think that it is the hose joint that leaks?
    – Michael Karas
    Commented Sep 26, 2013 at 21:42
  • 2
    There is something awry in the OP's write up. According to the current web-pictures in that post, the situation involves attaching a new male fitting. This means "the valve at the other end" (OP's words) is the supply valve, perhaps a faucet on the side of the house. Closing such a valve will cause the pressure in the hose to drop. In particular, the pressure at the male fitting will drop. So the OP's question boils down to: what would cause a leak at low pressure but not at high pressure? –
    – mike
    Commented Sep 26, 2013 at 21:59

3 Answers 3


Assuming the nipple is not bent out-of-round or otherwise defective, and assuming the hose is not so old as to be brittle, cracked, inflexible, I'd suggest:

  1. scrub clean the inside of the hose with, say, a tooth brush

  2. let it dry well

  3. apply almost any kind of caulk (silicone, construction, or ...) to the inside of the hose smearing it against the inside wall of the hose

  4. apply more to the full length of the nipple

  5. assemble

  6. apply hose clamps

  7. use


Just last month I was attaching new hose ends to repair some hoses at my daughter's house. I was using hose ends like these equipped with barbed ends and die cast clamps as shown:

enter image description here enter image description here and die

I found that the hoses being repaired had molded in ridges inside the hose that interfered with the sealing of the barbed fittings. The drawing below shows what a cross section view of the end of the two types of hoses had inside:

enter image description here

I found it necessary to use a narrow very sharp blade to trim away the extra material on the inside of the hose. Without doing that the hose ends would leak no matter how hard I screwed down the clamps around the hose.

It makes me wonder if the hose manufacturers are putting those ridges inside the hose to discourage DIY repair and force more new hoses to be purchased.

  • This is great info for anyone with that kind of gardenhose, however, mine is perfectly smooth on the inside, not even a joint from where it was put together. Commented Sep 26, 2013 at 18:24
  • 1
    I figure that the ridges in the hose greatly helps its rigidity so it kinks less for the amount of material used in the hose. I wonder if it also reduces the turbulence in the hose?
    – Pigrew
    Commented Sep 27, 2013 at 4:03

That's easy - you have to tighten end of the hose on to the nipple using a hose clip like this:enter image description here

  • I did that already, didn't help... Commented Sep 28, 2013 at 17:45

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