0

I am splitting a very large bedroom into two small ones. The minimum bedroom width is 7 feet. To accomplish that I have to build the dividing wall orienting the 2x4 studs so that the wide surface faces outward. This thin wall should have two electrical outlets. I was thinking to cut/remove the electric box bottom and make a hole on one of the sides and use a knockout non-metallic push-in connector to compensate for the electric box missing bottom.

Is there a better way to pass the electrical inspection?

6
  • 1
    mount the boxes on opposite edges of the stud or at different heights instead of back to back.
    – Jasen
    Commented Sep 4 at 2:25
  • Thank you much !!! Commented Sep 4 at 16:49
  • A "very large" bedroom is one that when split in half, produces two rooms both less than 7 feet wide, and you have to scavenge 2 inches of wall thickness to pass inspection? What then, would you call a "very small" bedroom?
    – jay613
    Commented Sep 5 at 3:22
  • There are boxes and outlets that will fit in the 1.5 inch thickness of a sideways stud. So I don't understand what problem you are trying to solve. If there is a problem with thickness, I don't understand how removing the bottom would solve it. And I don't understand how a side knockout compensates for the box having no bottom. The better way to pass electrical inspection is to just use an unmodified shallow box according to its design.
    – jay613
    Commented Sep 5 at 3:25
  • 1
    @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact probably. And hopefully metal will squash any thoughts of "removing the bottom" whatever that means.
    – jay613
    Commented Sep 5 at 15:28

2 Answers 2

6

Never modify plastic boxes, they are not designed to survive modification.

I use steel boxes, and this here is the most commonly used box. Note how it is 1-1/2" deep. Also available with flanges for mounting on 2x4's etc. So-called 3/8" cable clamps go in the smaller knockouts to hold Romex. They also make box variations with built in Romex clamps and fewer or no knockouts.

On top of that goes this "mud ring" to bring a 1-gang opening through 1/2" drywall. Giving about 26 total cubic inches. The mud ring is also available in 2-gang, though GFCI/AFCI will be a tight fit in the 2-gang version.

Note that with steel boxes, you are required to bring cable ground wires to the steel box FIRST. NEC 250.148. The box must remain grounded even if the switch or receptacle is totally removed.

How do you get grounds to the switch, then? Magically. The switch picks up ground via its mounting screws, and that's it. NEC 404.9(B). How about receptacles? If the receptacle is identified as "Self-Grounding" NEC 250.146(B), and the $3 "spec grade" receptacles are so identified, then it does the same trick. That's a real time-saver, since you now have 1 less wire to wrestle.

Your wires will be within 2" of the finished wall surface at all times, so you will need nail plates in a lot more places. Consider using EMT metal conduit to fully enclose the wires, as this provides nail plate protection inherently. Then use THHN individual wires.

2
  • I'm curious if using EMT and self-grounding devices in small-town residential might result later in inexperienced buyers' inspectors faulting the total absence of ground wires. Any experience with that? Is it part of their basic training?
    – jay613
    Commented Sep 5 at 15:30
  • Two GFCI should fit in a two-gang. Here's one I made earlier. this isn't a mud ring, it's a 2-gang cover but that's even tighter. Just dry-fit it all outside the wall first. In my photo I had to turn it sideways so the end of the nipple would fit between the two devices. You can't turn a mud ring sideways after it's plastered in. :)
    – jay613
    Commented Sep 5 at 15:36
3

Cutting apart a box is not going to go well. You have a couple of options.

  • Regular Boxes

There are metal boxes that are nominally 1.5" deep, which matches the depth of a sideways 2x4 (1.5" x 3.5"). And actually, you have up to 2" to work with because you have the 1/2" drywall thickness as well. So there are boxes you can get which will fit just fine. The second part of this is, of course, the receptacles. I have one in front of me which is just about 1" thick, so a 1.5" box will do just fine. Not all receptacles will fit, and particularly GFCI, USB and other specialty receptacles need more space. But there are good quality standard duplex receptacles that will work just fine.

  • Surface Mount Boxes

You can also use surface mount boxes. These are typically metal boxes designed for use with conduit on the outside of the wall, but they can also be fed with cable from inside the wall. More of an industrial look, but sometimes that is a necessary evil. And if you want to get a little fancier, you can use something like this Legrand Wiremold box from Home Depot:

Legrand Wiremold box

which functions like any other metal box but has a more finished look.

4
  • 3
    Another option is possibly to use 2 gang boxes with a 2 to 1 gang mud ring so that you get more room in the box
    – Jasen
    Commented Sep 4 at 2:22
  • 3
    @Jasen Yes, in terms of box fill. But if a device needs more depth, it needs more depth. Commented Sep 4 at 2:26
  • 1
    There are a number of shallow metal double gang boxes too, but as mentioned, depending on the depth of your device (e.g. GFCI outlet) you may need something deeper. You'd need to obviously use a single+blank combo cover plate.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Sep 4 at 15:01
  • 1
    Thank you ALL !!! Commented Sep 4 at 16:46

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.