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Pap fixed things using whatever he had around the house. Here's an example. God bless him, because his rigged up solution is the not the failure point. A hole has corroded through the 60 year old faucet. To replace the faucet, I need to address the hot and cold water connections.

The square nut won't budge (second picture). I'm concerned the plastic pipe stem is going to break if I force it. Do I cut beneath the ball valves and install new cutoff valves? Is that necessary or could I potentially salvage the top end of the existing valves?

Has anyone seen anything remotely like this before?

The hot water and cold water connections to a kitchen faucet last serviced around the Vietnam war.

Top view of the cold water connection to a kitchen faucet. Yes, that's a square nut.

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  • The plastic pipe breaking is not a concern—it's easily replaced. In fact, I would probably just replace it all with proper supply valves and hoses at the copper pipes.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Aug 11 at 14:36

2 Answers 2

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The dude should have used unions (a type of plumbing fitting) here but didn't.

Options are.

Saw through the plastic pipes dress the ends and install unions. (or a fitting that will accept a flexible line as is usually used here) you'll possibly be waiting 24H for the glue to set but this may well be the easiest option.

Replace the pipes above the cut-off valves, theses valve's connections to the pipes are shark-bite (or similar), so in theory, once the release collar is pressed in they will let go and you can insert a new pipe there. In practice the they may be full of that blue crud that is running down surface of the pipes and not want to let go, or not form a good seal on the new pipes.

Remove the cut off valves, and replace them, If you can turn off the water supply (or freeze the pipes) this is probably the best option. The bottom shark bite connector will not have collected much blue crud so it should release easily, if not you can saw off the end and install new valves lower down.

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  • I appreciate you sharing the idea of using a union. I'm very much following in my grandfather's footsteps of having a general idea of what needs done but no idea how to do it right or what to call the pieces I need to do it right. I'll get some unions. Thanks!
    – my_ancient_house
    Commented Aug 13 at 14:09
  • The issue here is that you still have multiple connections here that can be a source of a leak. You will also need to source a 1/2 CPVC to 3/8 compression fitting for the end of the CPVC line. That is not readily available and again another possible leak. Just replace the in-line shut off valves with 1/2 Sharkbite to 3/8 compression 1/4 turn valves. (Available everywhere) . The 3/8 male compression ends are then ready for the 3/8 to 3/8 or 3/8 to 1/2 lines needed for the new faucet. No change to different pipes, no multiple fittings.
    – RMDman
    Commented Aug 13 at 15:18
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The blue is oxidation on the copper from moisture or possibly chemicals stored under the sink. A mix of vinegar and water can clean it off.

The CPVC from the shut off valves to the faucet lines is a bit unusual. Keeping the old valves and the CPVC invites the issue of finding adapters to mate to the supply lines of the new faucet.

I'm sure once it is known what is needed you could start the search however my preference would be to cut out the old valves and replace with new 1/4 turn Valves that will be easier to mate with the faucet lines. This eliminates all the extra adapters that can be a leak.

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    replace the existing quarter turn valves with new quarter turn valves just to get a different termination?
    – Jasen
    Commented Aug 11 at 0:46
  • Yes replace the in-line valves with 1/4 turn 1/2 shark-bite to 3/8 compression that accepts most faucet supply lines.
    – RMDman
    Commented Aug 13 at 15:09

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