I apologize for writing a second similar post. I'm new to the site and was having difficulty uploading an image/diagram. I deleted the second one and attached the diagram here.

Long story short, I ended up with a new European electric stove in the United States. It's 40 AMP, 240V and 50/60 Hz compatible. Coming off the Circuit breaker I have two hot wires (red/black), Neutral (white) and ground (green). The electric stove has 6 terminals...and two wiring diagrams below. Would appreciate advice on how to wire. Thanks in advance.

One response was to connect 1 Hot to the L, and the other Hot to the N, cap the white neutral, which I have done. The downdraft works...but the induction burners are still not operating.

Model: Elica Nikolatesla Unplugged blix/a/90 Induction stove integrated hood 90 cm

Thank you jay613. Very helpful. I have wired as you recommend. It's 4-wire cable. I have the 2 hot leads and ground connected to the stove. The downdraft works, but the induction burners are not heating up. I currently have the neutral wire capped at the stove, but I believe it's hooked up at the circuit breaker. Sounds like that doesn't matter.

I have all the jumpers in and all screws tightened. I pulled out the multimeter and I'm showing 117V on each of the 2 hot lead wires, each of the 5 terminal points, and each of the 3 jumpers. puzzled.

Wiring diagram:

enter image description here

  • Without more information, it might or might not be feasible to wire that stove for use in USA. Commented Jul 7 at 5:04
  • 1
    show us the wiring diagrams
    – Traveler
    Commented Jul 7 at 5:08
  • 1
    We probably work as one hot one neutral, but we need at least the model to help.
    – KMJ
    Commented Jul 7 at 6:53
  • 1
    European cookers have options to connect multiple 240V circuits. This allows them to work at full power in more homes depending on available wiring. They also have options to limit power when needed. The documentation is essential. You didn't link that.
    – jay613
    Commented Jul 7 at 10:42
  • 1
    @JimStewart they are not banned, there's no difficulty. You can move them here, you can buy them here. It used to be very common for expats to bring appliances. Less so now because new ones cost less, and shipping costs more, in relative terms vs decades ago.
    – jay613
    Commented Jul 7 at 10:48

2 Answers 2


Virtually all such stoves have full isolation between the Neutral and the Ground (Earth) so you just use the "One Hot, One Neutral" 240V diagram with the two House Hots (one on the "Hot" per diagram, one on the "Neutral" per diagram) to provide the required 240V and do not use the house Neutral at all, since 120V is not used at all in the appliance.

The House Ground/Earth connection goes to the range/stove Earth/Ground connection.

Given the 50/60 Hz rating you can probably find detailed instructions from the maker for this case, but that's how it works with native 240V appliances connected in USA/Canada.

  • Many EU stoves use 2 phases of a 3 phase supply so be careful. Oh and the neutral...
    – Solar Mike
    Commented Jul 7 at 16:29
  • 1
    Despite limited detail, the question states that there is a 1 Hot, 1 Neutral wiring option, so that's not 2 phases. And that is the option I mention to use in the answer.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Jul 7 at 21:49

Here is the manual.

First, a few observations.

  1. It has four burners, EACH capable of 3.7kW. In theory (but not really) this could consume about 15kW, requiring 80 amps of cabling.
  2. It has different wiring methods, where two or three lives can feed the different burners. If the lives are in phase you can even use two neutrals. This is only for Europe, where you actually have a neutral at 240V.
  3. But in the USA, you don't have "phases" and you don't have an actual neutral, you just have two wires at 240V. Period. This limits you to the vanilla, factory-configured wiring technique with all the jumpers installed.
  4. There is a configurable software power limiter. This is where it gets interesting. There are only two configurations. The default is 7400W, and you can change it to 4500W. That's it. The cooker will intelligently not apply full power to all burners at once.

In the USA only the first wiring option, with all the jumpers in, can be used because you don't have a 240V neutral. So:

  • If you have #6 wire feeding the location and a 50A breaker, connect that to the cooker in default configuration and replace the breaker with a 40A one. You may need to use a junction box with short lengths of slightly smaller wire if the cooker's terminals can't accommodate your wire.
  • If you have #8 wire, probably with a 40A breaker, you're good to go.
  • If you have #10 wire, with a 30A breaker, set the power limiter to 4500W and use the circuit.
  • In all cases, if you have a 4-wire cable, do not use the neutral wire.
  • Connect ground as required by the manual.
  • Thank you. Follow up question in the edited post. thx again
    – terry ward
    Commented Jul 8 at 17:54
  • Re your follow up question. Leave the neutral connected at the panel. Doesn't matter here. If you measure 240V at the terminals, follow the manual's installation and fault finding steps. You have the jumpers in and all screws tightened?
    – jay613
    Commented Jul 8 at 18:20
  • Thanks again jay613. Follow up above.
    – terry ward
    Commented Jul 9 at 4:43

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