Context: Contractors framed out half a basement for basic finishing (insulated walls and electrical to make the space retain more winter heat and be more usable). Basement is dry now, after significant drainage upgrades (full wrap-around interior french drains, 2 sump pits + pumps). Plan is to put up sheetrock on interior of finished space, exterior is unfinished and we'll be slower to put a wall up (may just be plywood or wood paneling).

Framing is done and I'm roughing in wiring, but before I finalize that, there is a corner in the framing that I'm unsure about. Here's what I'm looking at:

problem area Blue arrow points to the gap between bottom plates.

Here's a zoom in of that gap (don't mind the borehole sawdust): zoom in on gap

From another angle, highlighting the most immediate issue with that gap: how will drywall connect to studs at that corner? new angle for drywall hanging issue

This might've been motivated by some wackiness with the existing stair case the framers worked around. They were running the walls exactly parallel or perpendicular to the concrete block walls (at least 1" off those concrete walls), but for this interior wall alongside the stairwell, they found the stairs were not exactly parallel with the concrete walls. They framed so to leave a gap between studs and stairs to slide drywall in between.

When I look at this, it's unclear to me how drywall will attach at that corner, and it makes me wonder if the gap between bottom plates matters for any reason (for example, I figure it's best not to insulate down to concrete but instead rest batts on wood).

This has me wondering about workmanship quality but I'm too inexperienced to judge. To get this ready for insulation and drywall, should any additional wood be added? Blocking up and down the stud cavity to the left in the first photo, to give anchor points to drywall? Or add an entire new corner stud to that cavity so there's a nice drywall anchor point with 90-degrees (and a small gap) between studs? And what about the gap between bottom plates, is it needed/sufficient to add a block of wood in there to hold up insulation?

  • 1
    The gap not that big of a problem. Should be an extra stud for the drywall on the inside.
    – crip659
    Commented Jun 21 at 15:43
  • 1
    I would consider simply adding a stud at 90º to the end stud on the wired wall, and butting up another stud to that on the non-wired wall. That will strengthen your drywall corner.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Jun 21 at 17:25
  • @Huesmann I'm a little confused where you mean to put each stud. Would you be able to sketch it onto one of the images? Between where wires go and where drywall goes, I'm finding it a confusing corner
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 17:47
  • 1
    @cr0 does this help? imgur.com/X702vLZ
    – Huesmann
    Commented Jun 22 at 12:35
  • @Huesmann very helpful, thanks. Even just the one stud you depict on the bottom right seems like it would do the trick for a drywall end connection. Then I might tie the two walls together with a horizontal brace, or leave as is. I figure the simpler the cavity between the two, the easier it is to fill with rockwool
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 23 at 17:30

3 Answers 3


While this is in the category of some "sloppy work", I don't know that it can cause an issue.

Is there a reason for the gap? Not that I can conceive.

Attaching the drywall at the corner can be done without issue. I would only say there would be a problem if you plan to mount something heavy in the corner. In that case there should be more studs for support.

  • This framing is outside the edge of a staircase, such that inside this corner will just be a cavity under the staircase for storing stuff. So, not a big deal in that sense. As far as attaching drywall over that last stud bay on the left side in photo 1, is some blocking or an additional stud needed? Or it's fine as is. Asking as I want to finalize electrical, and once I do it'll be a pain to add another stud there.
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 15:49
  • A good drywall crew will place the drywall panel on the left wall first and then butt the right piece up to it. Tape and mud and it is done. No other support is needed. If it were me I would continue with my wiring.
    – RMDman
    Commented Jun 21 at 15:52
  • I see what you mean. Noob question as I haven't dry-walled anything: if I run a wire out one of those boreholes from the right wall (photo 1) and along the left wall, I'd do it so it's behind the drywall that goes up on the right wall, but if drywall on the left wall extends to the end how does the wire go through it? They just notch a hole out of the drywall for the wire, since that notch will be behind the interior-facing walls anyway?
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 15:59
  • And similar question applies with @isherwood's suggestion #3 to put a block mid-height tying these two end studs together. I'd put that block behind where the right wall's drywall would go, I guess the left-wall's drywall would just cut a notch out for wiring and blocking?
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 16:00

I see several areas of concern. The gap isn't one of them, as drywall will span that without issue.

  1. The bottom plates don't appear to be treated against decay (or isolated from the concrete). In the modern era this is required in most jurisdictions.

  2. The two end studs appear severely out of parallel. This suggests that one or both walls are out of plumb. I would put a level on both. Also check any doorways on both axes, where this would result in poor operation.

  3. The end studs aren't connected. A block of some sort should be used mid-height to tie them so they don't move with respect to each other. This makes your drywall joint more stable. Given the gap, don't displace the studs to bring them together. Keep them plumb and straight.

  • Thanks for flagging these issues, just the kind of input I was hoping to get. For #1, I had the same concern and voiced it at the time (or a request for tar paper underneath), they insisted and talked me out of it saying it is effectively an interior wall, not an exterior one and thus doesn't need PT. I even pulled up code, but the interpreted it as referring to exterior concrete. Since they're well rated for decades in the area, I accepted their way of doing it. Open to suggestions but doesn't seem like much of a next step on this front other than keep access to monitor bottom plate condition
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 16:05
  • #2 you are right. Doorways and the studs on the left wall (photo 1) are all plumb in both directions, along with a few other random studs I checked. The only stud not plumb is the end stud on the right wall - it is connected maybe an inch off on top. Seems negligible to me, as long as it's not creating other problems. Again this is in a tricky area around stairs, so that might explain this one stud.
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 16:07
  • #3 I can add in a block to connect the two studs as they are now, not moving them around. Based on RMDman's answer, I'm envisioning this block I put in will be flush with the right wall so that wall's drywall can go up against it smoothly, and the left wall's drywall will have a notch cut out to accomodate that block and any wiring making the curve between walls. Does that sound right to you?
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 16:08
  • There's no need to lap the drywall into the wall intersection as you seem to be thinking. They should lap one over the other at the corner and that's that. =:: RMDman was saying that by putting one sheet on first you essentially eliminate any gap for the next sheet. The span is so short, though, it just doesn't matter.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jun 21 at 16:47
  • But in that case, what is securing the end of the left wall's drywall? Do I need to put an additional corner stud in, perpendicular to the end stud on the left wall and flush with its interior edge?
    – cr0
    Commented Jun 21 at 16:49

There should not be a gap between the walls. Framing should be tight and continuous. There should be framing there for the drywall to be screwed to. Yes, it is possible for drywall to span, but it’s not ideal and not best practice. No major advantage to framing it this way rather than the right way. As another user mentioned, the walls should also be connected for rigidity, and ideally double studs on the wall that doesn’t have wiring through it for that adjacent wall to be nailed into. PT bottom plates as well. I agree with the other user on the studs looking out of plumb as well but that’s hard to tell for certain through a picture and could be illusory, but easy to tell with a 6’ level or by eye in (how it lines up with adjacent wall) in person.

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