My thinking is to use blue wood with a plastic barrier underneath, and then lay dricore up to the finished walls.

However, the dricore instructions say that framing should be on top of the sub-floor.

This is a 2-y.o. basement with no signs of moisture yet.

Is the framing on top of dricore actually necessary?

  • Presumably to stop rising damp in the wall space. Follow the instructions. – Matt Jul 23 '13 at 21:08
  • Dricore isn't installed right against the wall so damp air can rise into exterior walls. – DMoore Jul 24 '13 at 4:36

Let me be the first to say I hate working with dricore and I have a bunch of times (+10). I have done it both ways.

The fact that you get a tiny bit more r-value and keep PT wood out of water is not worth the possible issues. I have had issues with getting the bottom plate to set right on dricore and teetering of the outside plates with too much downward pressure (it is like you can't have too much down pressure or teetering but not enough and your wall isn't stable).

The only negative I can think of is that putting your walls up first you will need some scrap wood to nail into bottom plate for more screwing surface for drywall.

The whole purpose of dricore is to keep your flooring and materials dry. You aren't putting stuff on the other side of the wall.

Also if you haven't bought the dricore I would strongly strongly suggest rigid foam panels and plywood.

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  • Our basement was supposed to be "dry", but turns out we get up to a half-inch of water as it flows through the Dricore to the floor drain. The framing and drywall go straight to the floor, and now I'm dealing with mold that had crept up to where it was visible past the baseboards and carpet. Framing first screws the next guy. – John Neuhaus Sep 8 '15 at 12:07
  • @JohnNeuhaus - This is exactly why I hate dricore. Now that you have an issue you have 3 tons of panels to remove to figure out what is going on. The fact is for your install it didn't matter. You have such a water issue that you would get mold growth not matter what. Don't blame the install method, blame the thing that is causing 99% of your issues - water. – DMoore Sep 8 '15 at 20:12

The framing in a basement is non structural. The only weight on the walls is the wall itself and minor loads from shelving, etc.

The purpose of Dricore is to isolate everything from the floor and walls except the plastic spacing material on the bottom. Dricore is also installed with a small gap at the walls. If you build on top of the Dricore, the studs are kept away from any moisture that may seep through the basement floor or seep through the walls.

Keeping the studs from touching the basement walls also helps create a thermal break to assist with insulation. Additionally, an air-gap behind the insulation also increases the R value.

Build the walls on top of the Dricore. Pin the Dricore to the floor as directed.

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  • Wait you said that there is a gap between dricore and wall then you say to install over the dricore. I am confused. – DMoore Sep 8 '15 at 20:13
  • The wall gap for DriCore is only 1/4 inch to allow for humidity shifts. It is also better to space non-load bearing framing with a slight gap to create a thermal break and avoid moisture wicking 9in case there is a slight seepage through the walls.. – bib Sep 8 '15 at 20:34
  • The gap is between the outside wall. So air can flow from under the dricore, under the inside wall that is on top of the dricore and up between the inside/outside wall. If you plan it so that there is air pressure and flow in one area (like the furnace room) through this space and out a vent on the other side of the basement, that airflow will pick up and carry small amounts of moisture. – Craig Celeste Oct 4 '16 at 12:02

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