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I'm replacing a few bathroom faucets, and when I went to replace the drain with the provided drain assembly, I realized that the p-trap was missing nuts to remove the j-bend from the p-trap assembly. It looks as if all the components have either been glued together or attached with plumber's tape. In addition, one of the joints in the trap arm that connects to the wall tube is leaking, so I need to fix that as well.

How would I go about fixing these issues? My understanding is that faucet p-traps typically use slip joints and are not usually glued like this. Do I cut everything off past the last coupler attached to tube coming out of the wall and replace it with a p-trap kit? I have attached photos. I'm not that familiar with plumbing vocabulary, so I've labeled the parts with letters in case that's helpful for you. Are there any good Youtube videos or resources to look at for me to do this?

Don't mind the other the buckets. I installed new compression valves and need to tighten them a bit.

Thank you very much in advance!

full drain drip another view of full drain

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Grab a hacksaw and cut pipe G as neatly as possible and as close to the edge of coupling F as you can (run the blade against the side of F as your guide to cut nice and straight).

Remove the whole mess (including all the thread tape sorta sealing A and B) and throw it in the garbage.

Using the proper primer & glue, glue a threaded trap adapter onto what remains of G in either 1-1/2" or 2" (to 1-1/2" threaded), depending on the size of the pipe in the wall.

The tailpiece (A) might have to be replaced if the bottom, hidden under all that thread tape, has been damaged. If so, you may need to replace the entire pop-up drain assembly, however, since you've still got the hacksaw out, you might just be able to neatly cut off any damage at the bottom. So long as there's no damage to the bottom of the tailpiece, there's no need to replace it.

Replace with a proper, screw-together P-trap. This will likely be a 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" trap - having recently installed some new bath vanities, I discovered that all the kits at my local big-box store were 1-1/2" piping, but came with an extra slip washer that would adapt to a 1-1/4" tail piece from the drain if it was necessary.

This is exactly why screw-together traps were invented.

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    Another thing -- -given the location of the leak --- before sawing G, I would first saw through D or E, and see if F can just be yanked off.
    – jay613
    Commented Apr 29 at 19:43
  • Thank you! I have a few follow up questions. 1) Would this be a 2" to 1.5" adapter? 2) What exactly is A? Is it something that would come as part of a new drain? I bought a faucet, and it came with a drain, but I don't know if I still need part A.
    – leukenta
    Commented Apr 29 at 21:52
  • @leukenta Part A is called a "threaded tailpiece" and is included with most pop-up drain assemblies. Usually they are 4", and sometimes need to be replaced with longer.
    – kreemoweet
    Commented Apr 30 at 5:03
  • @leukenta You do not need to replace Part A if it's not leaking at the top. Get a slip-joint nut on it with SJ washer and attach to your new P-trap assembly. Bath lavs are usually 1 1/4" drains, so you would need to put a 1 1/4" trap arm adapter on the wall pipe. If the wall pipe is 2", you will likely need to adapt down to 1 1/2 because 2 x 1 1/4 trap adapters are rare if they exist at all.
    – kreemoweet
    Commented Apr 30 at 5:12
  • @kreemoweet I think you've got a typo in your first comment - that pipe into the wall is NOT 4"! It might be a 2" pipe. Also, as now noted in my updated answer, all of the trap assemblies I saw when purchasing for my new vanity installs were 1-1/2" with an extra washer to adapt to a 1-1/4" tailpiece.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Apr 30 at 12:33

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