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I am a dog breeder and I am in the process of converting a 10 x 15 shed into a dog kennel house. I plan to insulate the building and run a sub panel from the houses main breaker. I’m really just looking to have a small AC in the summer and heat in the Winter, lights and a couple of extra outlets for maybe some heat lamps for puppies when they are born. I am located in north eastern Kentucky, for reference.

Id like to run UF-B cable in the crawlspace, attached across the bottom of the floor joists, and then direct bury the last 30 feet from the foundation to the shed. Since this building will be converted to a dog kennel, I have no need to do any future upgrades - I have another large building that is fully wired with a 100 amp panel on its own service where all my power tools are used.

I would probably be looking at around 60-70 feet max under the house, and then 30 feet underground outside.

Can I use UF-B wire in the crawlspace as I’ve mentioned and then just direct bury the last bit? What amp sub panel and wire gauge would you recommend for the feeder wire? What would be the best size breaker to use for the outlets considering I’ll have either a window AC or Heater running, a couple of heat lamps and maybe a phone charger or 2.

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    "a couple heat lamps and a heater" running at the same time imply the need for at least 2, if not 3 (depends on the wattage of the heat lamps) 20A circuits.
    – Ecnerwal
    Apr 28 at 1:25
  • The heat lamps run 250 watt bulbs
    – Tyler
    Apr 28 at 1:35
  • So I think maybe 2 20 Amp circuits for outlets. One 20 amp for the outlet that is used for the heater and AC, and then a 20 amp for the other outlets
    – Tyler
    Apr 28 at 1:44
  • A DIY-install mini-split heat pump would cost you somewhat more to buy, but considerably less to run than an air conditioner and heater.
    – Ecnerwal
    Apr 28 at 13:05

1 Answer 1

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Your indication that you really want no room for the future, I will offer a minimalist scenario.

UF is fine in crawlspace, you have to install following NM rules where not underground.

Feed 12/3 Uf from a 20A two pole breaker to a Leviton 54522-2W 20 Amp Double-Pole Toggle Switch mounted inside as a disconnect switch. No panel required.

Run the 120v from one side of switch to heating/cooling outlets, run the other 120v side of switch to the general purpose receptacles and lights. If you're going to run heaters and heat lamps at the same time put the heat lamps on the lighting/general purpose receptacle circuit.

Being fed from a 2 pole 20A breaker you also eliminate the requirement for driving two ground rods.

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  • This is really the answer to all of my questions and gives me the layout for what I think I’m going to do! Thank you so much
    – Tyler
    Apr 28 at 2:49
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    Really I might use a 240v nonfused disconnect GNF221A rather than the 2P switch. By the time you add the cost of a j-box and cover the extra $5 is probably a good price for the cubic inches. Apr 28 at 3:14
  • IIRC the breaker should be GFCI. And if it is the burial can be 12" cover rather than 24" cover.
    – Ecnerwal
    Apr 28 at 13:03
  • @Ecnerwal I wouldn't because I'm not convinced an inspector would accept a multiwire branch circuit as "rated 120 volts or less". A single gfci receptacle on the first receptacle of each leg after disconnect is probably cheaper than a GFCI breaker. Apr 28 at 13:44

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