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I have an old dining table with a thick layer of oil-based paint. Since it has lots of paint chips so I decided to remove the old layer and repaint again.

I started off using a palm sander for a small section but it can't get to the small cracks here and there. I wonder if I can use Citristrip stripping gel and then pressure wash it off, let dry and repaint.

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    I'd never use a pressure washer on furniture--especially furniture you want to refinish. – DA01 Jul 21 '13 at 20:23
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    Verify that the table is solid wood and not a veneer. The stripper may dissolve the glue that is holding down the veneer. – mikes Jul 22 '13 at 0:26
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A stripper gel is worth a shot. Never tried myself. I'd definitely use a heavy duty respirator with that stuff. A big no way on the pressure washer ;).

You might also try contoured sanding pads. I use these all the time. Sanding just sucks and takes devotion..

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10568/large-contour-sanding-pads-6-piece.aspx http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000274/1744/standard-kit-sanding-sticks-24-piece.aspx

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As noted by others, water based strippers and water rinsing entails some risk for veneers.

Since you are repainting, sand down almost to the cracks and then use a crack-binding primer, (Peel Stop Triple Thick, the new version will fill alligatored finish and bind the remaining finish)

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To avoid that 'sticky' surface feeling on a table (or any handled furniture or woodwork) avoid latex and use an alkyd (oil based) enamel. There are several water borne versions out now (Benjamin Moore Advance and Behr Semi-gloss Alkyd enamel) that spread and level like oil, but have much lower odor and cleanup with water. The final film is much harder and more dent resistant.

Alternatively, you can clear coat 'seal' latex with a water borne polyurethane (General finishes has a 'self crosslinking' poly that is very durable, Enduro Clear Poly). This technique requires 10-14 days drying of the latex before sealing, to prevent blushing.

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