2

I recently bought a GE in-wall oven (JRP20WJWW), but the whip power cable is too short (it was 45 inches, not 49 inches like the last oven).

Since the power is on the left side of the oven and my breaker is under the stove, I am just short (like 12 inches or so). I don't have a junction box in my oven space, as the breaker is just a few feet away (maybe 2 feet at most).

My question is whether or not (according to NEC codes and good electrical practice) I need these wires (presumably 12-3 gauge since it's 240V/20A?) in an aluminum conduit like what the oven came with. Or is it ok to just get the genuine OEM Part that GE recommends (GE WX09X10038), cut the ends, and then just use that?

(I am assuming the rubber around the wires is ok. But I would like to double check, as I don't know the NEC codes)

3
  • Yeah, it's 240V/20A. Thanks, I should have been more clear
    – Roger
    Commented Apr 24 at 18:43
  • I think I may have found it -- NEC 330.10(11) 330.10 Uses Permitted. (11) In wet locations where any of the following conditions are met: The metallic covering is impervious to moisture. A moisture-impervious jacket is provided under the metal covering. The insulated conductors under the metallic covering are listed for use in wet locations, and a corrosion-resistant jacket is provided over the metallic sheath. This 12/3 Armorlite seems to be the ticket homedepot.com/p/…
    – Roger
    Commented Apr 25 at 4:11
  • I'm not sure what you're talking about here. Most wall ovens I'm familiar with come with what's called a whip—basically a flexible metal conduit containing 4 wires. The whip runs to a junction box where the wires are connected to the house wiring. You've linked us to a cord with a plug. Does the new oven have a whip, or cord with plug?
    – Huesmann
    Commented Apr 25 at 12:03

2 Answers 2

0

Usually, the pig tail simply screws onto terminals on the back of the oven (hidden under a cover near where it enters the back panel). Simply buy a longer pig tail and replace the existing one.

3
  • Correct. It comes with a pig tail that is metal conduit and GE recommended one that is black rubber. Just use the black rubber one they recommend? No aluminum conduit necessary, correct?
    – Roger
    Commented Apr 24 at 18:44
  • assuming UL. I can't think of a case where following manufacturer's instructions would be wrong.
    – Jasen
    Commented Apr 24 at 23:58
  • 1
    I called GE, and they recommended using GE WX09X10038 part. This rubber exterior looked flimsy without the MC (metal clad) type of exterior, particularly since it would be under an oven that might have water overhead.
    – Roger
    Commented Apr 25 at 17:24
0

Ovens are routinely wired with flexible cords, which have a male plug on the end and which are plugged into a matching receptacle mounted in an accessible junction box. It is NOT permissible to cut the plug off and use it as some kind of "hard wiring". Hard wiring must consist of one of the few permissible wiring methods outlined in the electrical codes, using listed equipment. A flexible cord with the plug cut off is not listed, and there are no acceptable wiring methods using such a cord.

1
  • I'm...not sure if your analysis is correct -- a piece of cordage doesn't stop being a piece of cordage when the plug's chopped off Commented Apr 26 at 2:20

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.