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Can anyone tell me why this vanity was professional installed like this? It's like the backsplash is crooked. The backsplash is tight to the wall at the corner, then about about 15 inches to the right not tight, then tight to wall about 10 inches further right and then at right corner it not tight again. The gaps between backsplash and wall are anywhere from 1/8 of an inch to almost 1/2 of an inch.

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    Did your contract specify that the wavy wall was to be fixed? If it didn’t, caulk is probably the solution at this point. Commented Apr 17 at 1:03
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    If you paid someone to do it, it was professionally installed. Not all professionals are good, or attentive to details, or even competent at what they get paid to do. So long as they get paid to do it anyway they are professionals...
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Apr 17 at 1:15
  • I wouldn't hack up the drywall. That would mandate full replacement if the top or cabinetry was ever changed. Seems drastic.
    – isherwood
    Commented Apr 17 at 14:25

2 Answers 2

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You have your cause and effect (or blame) a bit backward. Put straightedges on both the wall and the backsplash and you'll see which is the actual issue.

  1. Solid-surface ("cultured stone") tops aren't as shapeable as say a laminate-on-particle-board top. They don't have an extending flange at the wall intended to be planed to fit, and the material is rather difficult to mill in the first place.

  2. Drywall on wood is never straight or square. It's the nature of the beast that there be some waviness and some rounding-out of inside corners and ski-jump effect on outside corners. Walls are sometimes out of square with respect to each other due to alignment challenges during construction.

  3. It's not standard practice for cabinet installers to modify walls. They fit to walls, but only to the extent they're reasonably able. In this case, as mentioned, options are limited. They don't budget for that kind of work as it's rarely expected or needed. It opens a can of worms they aren't prepared to herd.

What do you do now? That's a matter of opinion. I personally dislike large caulk beads. I'd often prefer to ignore a gap (it's not a boat, after all) than squooge a bunch of goo into it which tends to look worse over time. I think of the vanity as furniture rather than an extension of the wall.

You do you. If you do caulk it, keep it minimal. Cut the nozzle so you apply just what it takes to fill the gap, and don't create a large cove. If you struggle to get that just right, tool it out with a finger or similar and wipe all caulk off the backsplash edge to leave a straight line. Waviness is a sure path to a bad appearance. Later you can mask the counter top and paint the wall to recreate a straight line there and hide most of the caulk.


FYI, "flush" doesn't mean "tight to". It means on the same plane as, or level with. Don't be misled by all those "flush mount" light and ceiling fan kit boxes. They aren't. That was a mistake by marketing departments trying to sound clever.

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Your pictures don't show a half inch but I believe you. There is a huge difference between 1/2" and 1/8". 1/8" is a great install and easily caulkable.

Some general quips:

  1. If you paid someone to install the vanity, making your wall straight is not the same thing - AT ALL.

  2. (I have been blasted for my overly centric homeowner first type of comments in the past...) However contractor who installed the vanity should have told you the wall wasn't flat and had you choose the route to go.

  3. That being said were you going to pay $1000 to make the wall flat - with a textured wall like that it would have to be skim coated and some work to do to flatten then primed then painted. It would be a substantial amount of time and money to make this seemingly small fix.

  4. I redo a lot of bathrooms and there is no f'ing way I am going to redo the whole bathroom (if it wasn't textured it would be quite easier) just to remove the gap.

  5. Live with the gap and do nothing.

  6. If you caulk it and I will venture close to 1/2"... Caulk thin beads flat with the top of the vanity backsplash. For the larger parts it might take 3-4 passes. The next day once it has dried put a single bead on the top.

In the end it didn't matter if the guy installing this told you or not. You were still getting this result. It was not his fault you chose a rigid material nor his fault the wall wasn't flat. Honestly it took me a few times having work done on bathrooms to make sure this doesn't happen (during the drywall phase) but I tell my drywall guys I expect within 1/8" over 4' in bathrooms and I do go in with a 4 foot metal level and check. This is not the end of the world though.

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  • TY all for the answers & responses Just remembered last night about his deconstruction and re-construction of the bathroom. Maybe it was your answers that triggered it. After taking everything out from bathroom contractor not only put up some new sheet rock in places, he had some guy come in & texture coat walls where he put up sheet rock & where he enclosed old door opening. So if vanity and vanity top is uneven due to the wall guess he did it. Now my question is will just caulking top of the backsplash be a good solution or only a fix that will not last. – Commented Apr 18 at 15:23
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    I almost always caulk the top of the backsplash. Clear silicone. Clear doesn't stain.
    – DMoore
    Commented Apr 18 at 16:12
  • Bravo for having it all done right. If you are living in a home for a while and upgrade something don't spend money then be upset about how it turned out. Honestly we would have had to skim coat that for any house going over 400k in our area.
    – DMoore
    Commented Apr 25 at 3:22

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