3

Our baseboard became loose. I've done some research, but I could not find posts discussing how to fix a loose baseboard when there is a gap between it and the concrete. Also, as seen in the pictures, the concrete seems not pretty solid.

Do you think this something I can fix DIY style? If yes, I'd appreciate any pointers to tools/materials/techniques.

enter image description here enter image description here enter image description here enter image description here

2 Answers 2

2

You might be ok to just plug the old nail holes with thin pieces of wood and then nail it back into place (literally just take off some 5mm splinters from the ends of some spare wood to plug the old holes).

I would probably also use a bit of glue when refitting, to help the rest of the board stay in place with either:

  1. Hot-glue
    By this I mean something like this enter image description here
  2. Sealant glue
    Like "gorilla glue" or "no more nails"
    Glue from a sealant gun like this:

enter image description here

4
  • I would not use any kind of permanent adhesive. You want to be able to remove and reinstall baseboard at time, such as when installing wall to wall carpeting. Hot glue is harmless but I honestly don't think it would be helpful.
    – keshlam
    Apr 10 at 9:14
  • Hm yes, maybe not a sealant glue then; my main motivation behind suggesting the hot glue is that it might help reduce the amount the board moves if stepped on, which would help (if only a tiny bit) to stop the board moving and becoming loose so quickly, hot glue is pretty easy to clean off if refitting in the future
    – Harrison
    Apr 10 at 10:05
  • 2
    @keshlam, no adhesive is actually permanent, and if there was ever a case for a durable adhesive this is it. Almost anything can be scraped or ground away when that far away day comes.
    – isherwood
    Apr 10 at 13:07
  • Gripfill. That's what I'd use. Apr 10 at 21:48
5

Looks to me like the problem here is that there's just too big of a gap between the "wood" and the tile, meaning the wood doesn't underlap the "transition" (really, cove molding) far enough for the nail to have solid purchase—at least where they put the nail through the transition. You can see the notch in the end of the board where (I believe) the nail was, and pulled through.

I believe in this case I would simply replace the molding with either a same-thickness wider molding that can be nailed further away from the boards' edges, or a double-layered approach, where the bottom layer is wider, but butts right up against the tile, and the top layer nails to the bottom layer.

enter image description here

1
  • I agree. A transition is more appropriate than a base molding here, and it may help eliminate trips to some extent.
    – isherwood
    Apr 10 at 13:08

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.