pictures: https://imgur.com/a/UvnqAud

i am interested in putting a door in this opening as you see - its 45 3/4" x 79 1/4". ive never done this, but i do have the tools, and have experience doing other complex hands on projects. i just need some guidance from this lovely community, if possible!

for reference -- there is a door you can see in the picture, on the left side (bedroom door). just the door slab - is 77 3/16" - so Im guessing it was cut down at some point.

im a bit stuck for a few reasons and i need help or advice:

  • there is a stucco ceiling on one side (you can see) and i drilled a small pilot hole. it looks like it is drywall, but there is wood above that, where a theoretical door would go. the flooring is already installed, so im not sure if the door frame would just sit on top if drilled on the sides?
  • the opening is quite large (i went to home depot and the largest pre-hung door i found fits a 'rough opening of 82 x 38"). - can i just put 2 x 4 beams on the sides? should i used dimensional vs nominal wood? does it matter?
  • can a pre-hung door be cut to size including the jamb? am i better off not using a pre-hung door and making a custom jamb here?

another option is putting a sliding door - i know there would be less noise reduction, but it will still be better than my current situation, and it would be much easier to do.

i found a barn sliding door 48 inches with sliding hardware for about 400$ on wayfair.

  • 1
    Easiest would be a pleated (accordion, or expanding) door, very lightweight and taking almost no skill to install, but providing almost no acoustic isolation. Next easiest would be a bifold door (or a pair of bifold doors), which could offer an acoustic barrier. Both should be easier to install and provide greater room than a sliding door. Since you use HomeDepot, search there online for "bifold door" and "accordion door". Commented Apr 9 at 1:00

3 Answers 3


I was thinking a double door may fit your need. Two 20" doors hinged in a frame would fill the area and have a little room for trim on the bedroom door side, full trim on the camera side, and no drywall work needed.

Yes the doors can cut the doors down, and in your case, they must be cut down, in my opinion, drastically. Meaning if you use hollow core doors, you will be cutting so much off the bottom, that the cardboard web filling will be exposed and the integrity of the door will be severely compromised. It can be filled in with care, I have done that on many occasion. It is just a matter of process.

If solid doors were purchased, perhaps the filler will not be needed, then there is that expense, or get them custom made.... more expense.

The only other downside is, this will probably be an order item anyway, but it will get past some issues. A few ball catches for the top, this is usually prepped by the door company, and 2 sets of full dummy knobs, and done.

  • Yeah, I think you might be even able to get 22x80 doors, which might require less "filler" in the opening. May not be as cheap as a prehung single slab, but the RO is unusual here. Either that or a very wide single door, which may or may not be available in a style that matches the door around the corner. Of course, it depends whether there's a stud at the threshold.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Apr 9 at 12:49
  • Using 22" doors will leave barely any room for shimming (45 1/2" wide overall) I would not recommend shimming directly to drywall, plus the trim on one side would be about 1/2' to 3/4" wide. Adding a 2X6 ripped to 4 1/2" on either side will allow a solid backer even when screwed to the drywall with 2 screws every 16" It may need only 5/4 material to give some shim space. Or perhaps even the drywall can be removed with care, to use 2X material.
    – Jack
    Commented Apr 9 at 15:15
  • Like I said, it depends whether there's a stud at the threshold. No stud, you either gotta use a prehung or rip some drywall and add some structure. Also, the trim on the opening looks kinda weird—it doesn't seem to go to the outside corner.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Apr 10 at 12:09
  • @Huesmann please clarify "stud at threshold" A threshold to me is a strip of material that bridges the gap to the finish floor at an exterior door to close the gap under the door. It could also be considered sometimes the transition strip at door or cased openings where the floor changes direction or heights. FWIW, there will always be studs at the corners. It is a 50/50 chance it will be the flat side or the edge, still, something is always there. Sorry for being picky about the terminology, but when there is no drawing or picture to depict the subject, terminology is all we have sometimes.
    – Jack
    Commented Apr 10 at 15:01
  • If you look at the pic, there's a transition threshold between the two flooring types. I assume that's where a door would be. If there's no stud there to attach a door to, then it becomes more difficult.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Apr 11 at 14:44

so, i ended up getting someone to help me, thankfully!

we ended up buying a 32" x 80" pre-hung door.

  • we cut the door, and jamb, vertically to fit the vertical height.
  • we attached the jamb against the left side of wall.
  • on the right side (camera side), we installed a small 2x4 frame. so the right jamb of the door, was installed/attached to the small 2x4 frame.
  • we covered both sides of the 2x4 frame with thin plywood.

it does not look the prettiest, but it gets the job done, which is what my intention was for this small project anyway. i hope this helps someone out there!

i will try to upload some pictures.


If you (or the next person) wants to do this with a single slab, and can't find helpers, there are tools out there that basically act as a dolly for the door, allowing it to be maneuvered into position on casters. (The branded versions are known as The Door Stud -- I have no affiliation with them, it's just that they're designed to solve precisely the problem the OP came to us with.)

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