I have a kenmore dryer model number 11066822694, The dryer works but did not heat up, I tested all components, and the High limit thermostat didn't have connectivity. I replace it with one from a kit, that was marked 309F, original part is 3399848. When I put in this new high limit thermostat and turn the dryer on it trips the breaker. I checked various parts for a short and can not find one, If I take off the high limit thermostat and leave the wires dangling, the dryer turns on but still no heat. I also replaced the thermal fuse, heating coil/element and cycling thermostat. I am not sure why the new high limit thero keep tripping the breaker. It has 120v on both of the wires going into the high limit thermostat. Also the heating element has two red wires each measures 120v. I have put all parts from this kit into the dryer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YWK935R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

  • It may be worth asking your question on the PartsDr forum—they specialize in appliances.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Mar 25 at 12:29

1 Answer 1


Look inside the dryer for a short between the two reds or either red and ground:

  1. Disconnect the power plug
  2. connect one test lead to ground, and touch the other to anything you can get to. Look for a very low resistance reading, <10 Ohms.*
  3. Disconnect each device (such as the high limit tstat) one lead at a time.
  4. Repeat with one test lead on one red
  5. Repeat with it on the other.

Wiring sometime shorts when it rubs against a sharp edge, especially if cable ties have broken. Double check your own work to make sure you didn't inadvertently pull a wire loose or misconnect it.

  • The heating coil may show a resistance of less than 10 Ohms at room temperature (R rises with temp), masking the short. (We would expect a short to be less than ~8 Ohms, per Ohm's law: R=V/I, 8=240/30 assuming 240V and 30A breaker).
    To differentiate between short and normal heating coil resistance, you can measure the coil alone by disconnecting it and connecting your test leads to its terminals. Take anything less than that as a likely short, probably near zero. Meters sometimes show 1-2 Ohms even when the leads are shorted together; use that value as though it were zero.

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