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I have a curved wall with 7 windows in it. We are getting all the windows replaced but I'm a little concerned about how the windows will be trimmed on the curved wall. Currently there is no trim, the windows were installed, and then tongue and groove was installed on top. Here are some options we/the contractor has considered:

  • Cut the tongue and groove to install the windows and put traditional trim around the windows. The contract suggested just doing top and bottom of the window with straight pieces, but the middle of the trim would stick out 2-3 inches from the wall because of the curve
  • Remove the tongue and groove and replace with drywall (this doesn't really solve the trim problem)
  • Remove the tongue and groove and put back after the windows are installed. I'm not sure if this is possible since we haven't try to remove any
  • Trim with paintable flexible trim, but I think painted trim would look stupid with wood walls. Also, all the other windows on this floor are trimmed with wood

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  • That isn’t a lot of t&g to do completely new (assuming the old stuff won’t work with new windows)… do you like the current look? Commented Mar 22 at 2:33
  • @AloysiusDefenestrate We don't love or hate the wood. The other windows on this floor are on white walls with wood trim. We've thought about replacing the t&g with drywall, or just painting it, but we'd still need to trim the windows
    – Rachel
    Commented Mar 22 at 20:34

2 Answers 2

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Working with curves is always expensive, especially when it comes to stained or clear coated wood. Trim will or should be glued up from thinner pieces so it will readily bend, glued together, so it will hold the bend.

An accurate curved form will be needed to start. I have made them by drawing an arc on a flat surface that matched the radius of the wall, and fastened block securly following the curve about 4" apart, with the end grain on the curved line. the block, the drawn line and the bending stock should be about 1 foot longer than the finished piece is.

Using 1/8" thick stock, slather all the faces that will meet once together and have blocks ready to secure the curve roughly in place so bar clamps can draw it tight the rest of the way using more wood blocks, or 1/2" plywood, the same length as the bending strips, under the clamps to spread the force over a larger area.

If the trim is 3 1/2 " wide, start with 4" wide material so the edges can be trued up, to finish at 3 1/2".

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  1. band saw the 1x4-like pieces out of, say, 4x6 doug fir or cedar.

or

  1. knock together a steam box and bend the pieces

or

  1. hire a wooden boat builder
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