First major DIY project and want to confirm if what I’m planning to do is safe because it involves gas.

So we ripped out our old cooktop and got a new one. I'm trying to hook up to the gas line myself.

First, here are the instructions:


Following this, I'm planning to connect the regulator to the cooktop:

regulator to cooktop

Flex connector to regulator:

connector to regulator

And connector to gas line:

connector to gas

Everything's threaded so I'm planning to just screw it all in and tighten with a wrench.

One thing I'm slightly concerned about is that the connector came with this "Safety+PLUS Thermal Valve" that I have to disconnect because it has a male end and I can't connect that to the male end of the gas line. Is this thing OK to leave off?

enter image description here

Thanks for making it this far! Does this plan seem safe?

  • 2
    I would check with local regulations to see if you can touch this. Quite a few places require only licensed gas fitters/plumbers to do the work, so houses do not go boom.
    – crip659
    Commented Mar 13 at 16:36
  • 2
    You're really asking whether it's appropriate and legal. Whether it's safe is then entirely a matter of workpersonship.
    – isherwood
    Commented Mar 13 at 16:45
  • That appears to be designed to replace the nipple and adapter - it would thread into the valve directly.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Mar 13 at 16:51
  • Thanks for responding. This is legal in my area. Is there something I should be aware of for fitting the parts together?
    – Frank Tan
    Commented Mar 13 at 18:08
  • 2
    Your photo shows what appears to be thread compound on the flare end of the adapter. Thread tape/sealing compound does not belong on flare joint threads. The seal is effected by the metal-to-metal joint surfaces, and the threads are for applying mechanical pressure only. As for the "safety" valve, I would not assume that they actually work as suggested. Similar gimmicky "flood safe" valves for water are notorious for causing more problems than they solve.
    – kreemoweet
    Commented Mar 13 at 19:08

2 Answers 2


Your plan seems fine. Always use 2 wrenches (10" size is suggested in the instructions) to tighten fittings, holding one side of the joint stationary whilst the other gets screwed in. Do not overtighten: those flare valves and adapters, as they can easily be split by doing so. Gas is very low-pressure, compared to water service. Always test all joints (even the ones you didn't intentionally alter) with soap solution.


That thermal valve looks to prevent gas flow in one of 2 scenarios: The flex hose ruptures or there is a fire next to that valve. in either case it will shut off gas flow to avoid making things worse.

If you don't mind that risk then you can omit the valve.

Your existing setup didn't have a similar rupture shutoff. In your existing gas valve you'll see that after the shut-off valve there is a black male-to-male pipe going into a brass adapter.

Chances are that thread size of that black pipe is the same as the bigger threads on the thermal valve. If so you can replace that pipe+adapter with the thermal valve. Though you'll want some pipe-putty there (should say so in the instructions).

After this work you'll want to make sure to do a proper leak check. If you put a wrench on the shutoff valve, you may inadvertently create a leak upstream from it, leaking gas is not something to mess around with.

  • Thanks for your response! To make sure I understand, is it generally not recommended to tighten with a wrench? If not, what should I do instead?
    – Frank Tan
    Commented Mar 13 at 18:15
  • 1
    @FrankTan Anywhere that a wrench is used to tighten a joint, there will be somewhere on the other half of the joint to put another wrench to counter the tightening torque. The idea is to prevent twisting the pipe. This is the sort of thing where if you are in any doubt and you want a good chance of waking up alive the next day, you should get a qualified professional to do it. Commented Mar 13 at 20:12

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