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A few weeks ago my water filter in my Whirlpool fridge suddenly popped out of my fridge. We put it back in but then a little while later, it happened again. We bought a new filter, thinking that was the issue...it was not. The new one popped out too. At the same time, we've noticed when we turn on the faucet in the kitchen, the water pressure is super fast for 2 seconds, then levels off. A few weeks later, I hear what sounds like water dripping in my basement by where the main water switch is...I look, there's a leak. We thought it was the O-Rings but it was actually the pressure reducing valve that had a small hole on the front of it. So, we replaced the PRV. A few hours later, I notice some water coming out the top...we sealed that off with something other than tape. No more leaks. We made the pressure 50...a bit lower than before just in case this issue is related to the fridge.

I was indeed convinced the fridge filter and this were related. I put the filter back in the same day we fixed the pressure valve. Two days go by (weekend days), the filter is staying in. I claim victory. But today, a Monday, I hear a loud POP...sure enough, it's the fridge filter popping out. I tried to put it back in, it would NOT go back in. I turned on the faucet...it's a waterfall of water for 2 seconds, then levels off. I try the filter again, goes right in. So, clearly we're still having an issue...somewhere. It's not the pressure valve, it's brand new. So, what else could be causing this?

The internet suggests the water heater expansion tank. We do have one, I have no idea how old it is. This house was built in 2005...we moved in, in 2020. Could that be what's causing it? For now, I am just periodically turning on the faucet in the kitchen, so pressure doesn't build it. I assume that it didn't popout for a few days because it was the weekend, and we used the it more often than during the week.

Anyway, I appreciate the help! Thanks.

2 Answers 2

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Turn off the water supply and relieve all pressure.

Check the expansion tank - if water, rather than air, comes out the air valve, it's failed. If it's not failed, it should be set to 50 PSI if your PRV is set to 50 PSI. That way it will not be wasting tank volume on normal pressure, and will have the full amount of volume available to absorb expansion. If you adjust it to 50 PSI, wait a bit and check the pressure before turning the water back on, to be sure it's holding pressure. If it does not hold pressure, it's failed.

If it has failed, replace it.

Depending exactly where the new PRV was leaking from there may also be an issue with that, despite it being new. If water leaks into the area where water should not be, that can affect the pressure setting, particularly if you seal it up to hold that water in. It's not clear from your question where, exactly, it was leaking or what, exactly, you did to seal it up.

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  • Thanks for your response! We will try your suggestion on the expansion tank. As far as where the leak was...the original leak was on the PRV itself...a tiny hole on the front of it. After we replaced it, water was building up on top of where it connects to the pipe. (we sealed it with tape only originally). I am not sure what you call what we used to seal it up the second time...but it was a white gooey substance, I think my Dad called it a sealant.
    – Kevin M
    Mar 11 at 16:15
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The smart thing to do is get a 0-200 psi pressure gauge that you can install somewhere, like on an outdoor hose faucet, and read your water pressure. Or if you have the ability, or get a plumber, to install a gauge somewhere in the basement that's fixed. With everything you've stated, nothing tells me you actually know what your water pressure is and when. You can find these on amazon too.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-GW25-200-TM-Water-Test-Gauge-3-4-Hose-Thread-Top-Mount-0-200-PSI

If you've made it this far, gonna let you in on a secret, it's not water pressure that's the problem. My house and millions of others, on city water, have 100 psi all the time. No you cannot come over and use my shower. Everything plumbing is rated to at least 100 psi. The whirpool fridge/filter states up to 120 psi.

https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Refrigeration/Full-Size_Refrigerators/Product_Info/Tips_and_Tricks/Ensuring_Correct_Water_Pressure

https://www.whirlpool.com/accessories/kitchen-accessories/refrigerator/p.whirlpool-refrigerator-water-filter-1-whr1rxd1-pack-of-1.whr1rxd1.html

you are either using an incorrect filter and it's not seating properly to where the filter door or whatever latching mechanism is latching properly. In addition to the latching being plastic, is often problematic to begin with, can get easily damaged then not securely latch, or just not be properly done given their location and line of sight. You need to get a water pressure gauge like I showed, and observe static pressure in your house after the PRV [pressure reducing valve] with no water flowing; then where u stated pressure is super fast for 2 seconds meaning you get good water flow for 2 seconds then levels off (flow reduction) then without seeing first hand how much so it may be normal given other things. But I will tell you, setting whole house pressure to 50 psi, is, lame, especially if you have 2 stories; setting the PRV down to 50 is not a solution. You did not mention if you have city or well water, if well then your flow issue could be your pump and other equipment in your system (none of which you mentioned). To give any kind of good answer all that detail needs to be given. And also how old is this fridge? Is there mineral buildup where the filter plugs in preventing the filter from fully seating so the plastic door can fully latch? you did not mention fridge model and age so I am assuming the mechanics.

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