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Context: We've recently installed a Viking Legacy II hot tub, with an outdoor disconnect, and indoor subpanel. After troubleshooting various issues, I've exceeded my knowledge and am in need of help figuring out what the issue is.

Connection Details: Using 6 gauge wire, running between each component, we've connected the Hot Tub to the Disconnect, the Disconnect to the sub-panel with a 60A GFCI Breaker, and finally that's connected to a 60A Breaker in the main. I've tried 3 different GFI breakers and they all tripped in the same way, when power is supplied to the breaker and it's flipped on the breaker trips. Originally this was thought to be caused by the ground and neutral connecting, so I installed a ground bar in the subpanel and separated them (this was also hazardous in it's original state). Finally with the disconnnect on or off the the breaker still trips at the subpanel when powered on.

Components:

  • Viking Legacy II Hot Tub - Owners Manual Link (Note the ground wire in this photo is attached outside of the box to the ground bar, it has been moved inside the box and attached as directed)

Hot tub wiring

  • Halex Disconnect - HNF60R

Disconnect

  • Homeline Sub panel, 100A 6 spaces 12 circuits - HOM612L100FCP
  • Square D GCFI Breaker with Neutral - QOE260GFINM

sub panel

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    When you try two, much less three GFCIs and you get a GFCI trip, you should consider the likelihood that you have an actual ground fault...
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Mar 10 at 16:29
  • I can't see anything wrong off hand. But three breakers all tripping means there is a problem. Do the breakers say what type of problem, ground fault or over load/short?
    – crip659
    Commented Mar 10 at 16:30

1 Answer 1

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You appear to have connected the Neutral wire to the ground lug at the disconnect. That makes a ground fault.

Connect the ground wire to the ground lug, and connect the neutral wires only to each other, with an insulated connector.

That sort of disconnect is primarily intended for pure 240V loads without a neutral. It does not HAVE a neutral lug.

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  • That would make sense! Do you have any suggestions for the insulated connector? Edit: Am I able to use a winged wire connector for this or should I look at other options?
    – hhsnopek
    Commented Mar 10 at 16:37
  • Your options are a Polaris connector - relatively expensive but well designed and easy to install, or a wire nut. The problem with wire nuts is that big enough wire nuts are few & far between. An Ideal B4 Blue-Gray or WT54 Blue is rated for 2 6 AWG stranded.
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Commented Mar 10 at 16:48
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    A suitable sized (for the wires) wire-nut/marrette (or "winged wire connector") will work. Be sure to strip per the strip gauge, and crank it adequately tight that it is secure. A suitably sized Mac-Block or Polaris wire connector will also work; there, you need to use a suitable torque driver to tighten the screws to the specified torque. The cost issue is variable since you usually need to buy a box of wire-nuts, while the other options you might be able to get one-off.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Mar 10 at 16:55
  • I have a Wing-Nut Wire Connector, 454, Blue - would that work as an alternative to WT54 Blue?
    – hhsnopek
    Commented Mar 10 at 16:58
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    It's because you made a neutral-ground short (which is a ground fault) by using the ground lug (bonded to the case) to terminate the neutral wires onto. The case is probably also connected to ground by conduit, as the rear one appears to be metallic. It may also be connected to ground by the bare ground wires touching it.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Mar 10 at 19:54

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