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I have a faulty surface radiant element that has two terminals as below: enter image description here

The cooktop is Whirlpool Easytronic which shows "H" when it is hot.

The replacement for this faulty element is shown below as suggested by Whirlpool:

enter image description here

I have watched this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OexV6Btzejs&t=1s&ab_channel=PartsDr and I am wondering how I can convert these two wire terminals to 4 wires. I assume I can safely ignore the lighting terminals (leave them without any wire/cover) as possibly my cooktop has another built-in mechanism to detect whether the surface is hot (show "H") or not as the original one does only have two wires.

Update: Thanks heaps for your questions.

1-Yes I am based in NZ

2-I swapped a working one and the one which was not working and turn the cooktop on and the replaced element was heating up, so I concluded that only the radiant element is faulty. Moreover, I can see the coil of the faulty element is disconnected. A close up of the faulty element:

enter image description here

3-My cooktop does not have the faulty element as I removed it. It is the bottom right element. For a test, I turn it on for a few seconds and turned it off again and now I can see H (I covered the wire of the removed element with tape for safety).This possibly can prove the hypothesis that our cooktop may have another mechanism to detect surface is still hot (maybe a timer). Please see this photo:

enter image description here

4- And the one with the red cross is the faulty one before removal. enter image description here

5-model: enter image description here

As identified by the supplier:Part #480121101515 HEATING ELEMENT 145MM 1200W

Installed as follows:

enter image description here

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    Did the new part come with an instruction leaflet? Feb 27 at 11:11
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    If your original heating element only had two wires connecting to it, then it is reasonable to just connect those two wires to the corresponding labelled terminals on the new element and see how it works. I can't see any point in covering the unused terminals. Feb 27 at 12:41
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    How did you determine that the original element was faulty? Did you measure the resistance of the element? What did you get? Of course even if the heating element would give the expected resistance (approx range 10 ohm to 100 ohm) the limiter box could be at fault so the whole element should be replaced. But what I am getting at is the "infinite" switch is also a possible failure point. Feb 27 at 12:48
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    Care to edit to indicate brand/model numbers of all the parts invovled?
    – FreeMan
    Feb 27 at 12:57
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    Does your existing unit have any markings on the terminals?
    – Huesmann
    Feb 27 at 13:27

1 Answer 1

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You have amply confirmed that it is the burner that is at fault.

If Whirlpool tells you to use a replacement that has a different number of connections, then it is reasonable to take them at their word, but try to confirm that the part number is the correct one. You could ask them about what you are supposed to do about the difference in the number of connections, but if they won't tell you, then you could just connect the hot from the switch to the H and the neutral to the side of the ceramic bowl and see if if works.

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    Thanks Jim, upvoted, and confirm the output in a few weeks after installing the part. ETA is a few weeks Feb 27 at 20:19
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    Thanks, the part arrived and I set it up with only two wire and no need for a jumper Apr 3 at 2:36

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