Total Noob - Hanging Heavy Wooden Shelves [closed]

Question

I'm a complete noob, but I'm hoping to learn!

I've purchased 2 wooden slabs that I had the carpenter cut into 4 long shelves. They're cherry, and heavy. But I think they look great.

The gentleman I purchased them from suggested that I sand them down and then apply either Hopes Tung oil or Odies Oil. He was adamant that I don't apply a finish, but instead one of those oils to allow for the original wood markings to really pop.

Here's why I've come to you all!

Do you also suggest Hopes Tung oil?

Do you suggest the Odies instead?

Do you have a suggestion on how to best sand these? We have a power hand-sander, but what level of sandpaper would you suggest to get a nice texture for in-home shelves?

Any tips to make this process less tedious?

Here's the part I'm least excited about: We want to hang these on the wall and I'm severely overwhelmed on how to fasten them to the wall correctly.

What should I be looking for to hang them? I was thinking a simple "L" shaped bracket screwed into the wall, and then the wood. Probably 3-4 per shelf.

Is there a specific brand, weight class, etc I should be considering?

I have a Black and Decker old stud finder, but it seems unreliable. Any suggestions there?

what length screws or type of screws should I use?

Each shelf is about 35 lbs.

Any, and all help is greatly appreciated! I'm not in over my head, I know I can do this with your help!

Answer 1

Interesting project indeed here's my advice: When Sanding: Since your shelves are already cut, you can begin sanding with a coarse grit sandpaper (around 80 or 100 grit) to remove any rough spots or uneven areas.

Then Gradually Move to Finer Grits (120, 150, and finally 220 grit) for a smoother finish. This process help to create a polished surface.

You can use your power hand-sander, it will make the process quicker and more consistent. Just be mindful not to press too hard.

After sanding with each grit, wipe the surfaces clean to remove dust and inspect your progress.

For the Finishing: Both Hope's Tung Oil and Odie's Oil are good choices for bringing out the natural beauty of the wood. They enhance the wood grain and provide a protective finish. Better to ask a diy store staff for recommendations

For the Hanging bit : I recommend to look into these blogs: https://www.wikihow.com/Put-up-Shelves https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/aug/23/diy-dummies-guide-put-up-shelf https://treetrench.co.uk/how-to-put-up-a-floating-shelf/

Answer 2

I can't speak to stains, finishes, sanding, etc.

But as far as support:

Brackets in studs will work fine. There are a bunch of ways to find studs:

• Stud finder (might be time for a new one)
• Knocking on the wall and listening for how it sounds
• Magnet - will normally find drywall nails/screws
• Possibly together with any of the above: drilling small holes (smallest bit you have (so the holes aren't noticeable) that's at least 1" long (so that you can easily tell when you hit a stud after ~ 1/2" of drywall)

Studs are usually 16" apart but sometimes 24" apart, and sometimes other spacing.

Each bracket should have at least two screws into a stud. At least two brackets in studs for each shelf.

35 lbs. isn't much. Figure out how much weight you will put on each shelf - books or canned goods is very different from photographs and knick-knacks. Then double it. Then divide by the number of brackets per shelf and get brackets rated for at least that amount. For example:

• 6' shelf = 35 lbs.
• Textbooks (or similar) = 32 lbs./foot x 6' = 192 lbs.
• Total = 35 + (192 x 2) = 419 lbs.
• 419 lbs. / 4 = 105 lbs./bracket

Do you really have to double the weight? Not necessarily, but I have seen situations first-hand where shelves did not hold properly, so I don't like to take chances. Even heavy-duty brackets are relatively inexpensive.

The screws should be long enough to go through:

• The bracket
• 1/2" drywall (typical) or whatever wall material you have
• 1" to 1.25" into the stud

Typical is 2" screws. While longer would be even better, there is a concern about unprotected electrical wiring or plumbing pipes going through the middle of studs. If less that 1.25" from the surface then a nail plate is required to prevent you from easily drilling or nailing into the stud at that location. Drilling 2" into an unknown stud is risky.