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I will be replacing the ~25-year-old multi-turn valves and supply lines for my toilets and am wondering:

  1. if the current ones are sweated on?
  2. if they are, then when I replace with new valves if that has any implications or is a constraint?
  3. when I choose new valves, if I should go with compression or push-on style? (I don’t know how to sweat copper, and don't know anyone that does, either, AFAIK.)

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  • Question 3 is purely opinion based which is explicitly off-topic. The type of connection you choose is entirely up to you, your skill level, and willingness to spend money.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Feb 1 at 12:21
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    One alternative to replacing the valve, if the "hose" and toilet connection are still good, and the only problem is leaking or seize-up at the valve: You may be able to get new rubber seals for the valve, or find a valve with identical parts inside to swap out the handle and everything under the nut.
    – Triplefault
    Commented Feb 1 at 13:46
  • @Triplefault: Thanks...in this case, this replacement (a.k.a. "upgrade") is for purely aesthetic reasons.
    – AA040371
    Commented Feb 1 at 14:58

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It looks sweated. The compression fittings are more reliable and tolerant of poor prep work, so use a compression fitting to replace it. Cut the old valve off along with any blobs of solder clinging to the bottom of the pipe, use sandpaper (180 grit or so) with a twisting motion to deburr and shine up the pipe (try not to put any scratches along the length of the pipe), and install the compression fitting. A compression fitting can be overtightened, so finger tighten, take a half turn beyond finger tight, and charge the water line. If there's a bit of a leak, then tighten a bit.

If you opt for a push fitting, then spend an extra moment or two prepping so that you don't damage its o-ring with burrs.

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    The compression valves typically have instructions on how far extra to turn the nut after hand tightening and also to apply a drop of oil to make turning easier. It takes quite a bit of force and some dexterity with two wrenches. I would suggest using a green kitchen cleaning scouring pad to clean the pipe if you are apprehensive about using sand paper.
    – Evil Elf
    Commented Feb 1 at 12:25
  • @popham: thanks for the insights and direction, especially as to how to remove what's there and use of compression fittings...sounds like you are speaking from good experience, which is, of course, a perfectly decent reason to form an "opinion" on something :--)
    – AA040371
    Commented Feb 1 at 14:50
  • @EvilElf: thanks...thanks for the tips, and I'll be sure to peruse instructions first (for a change). In this particular case, I am getting my home ready for sale, and there are a few items regarding aesthetics, like this one, that I want to address so as not to draw the eye of any overly critical potential buyers/realtor agents.
    – AA040371
    Commented Feb 1 at 14:56
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    @AA040371, I guess the valve tighter to the wall probably looks best, but consider installing an MIP threaded fitting so that valves in the future can be replaced with two wrenchs. That spot of yours is a good candidate for compression fittings even if you were a pro with the solder. I suppose maybe a fiberglass blanket could save the wall from scorching during the soldering process, but the compression fitting is easiest.
    – popham
    Commented Feb 1 at 16:24

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