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We're installing a new 30" vanity and due to a last minute design decision, the 2nd stud we were planning to use for fastening is just at the left edge of the vanity frame. I could hit it with my lag bolt, but concerned it'd be too close to the edge of the vanity frame.

The vanity instructions say to use 2 lag bolts, i.e., a lag bolt at two locations. If I had known the vanity would be in this location or had more foresight, I would have added blocking early on. Now that we're at this point though, anything I can do here to fasten at a 2nd location, without me having to open up the wall? It's a free standing vanity, so fastening is for stability.

Thanks!

enter image description here

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    Normally I don't bother with a "clearance hole" for the shank of a lag screw (upon reflection I also start to worry for lags smaller than 3/8" because I frequently twist them off--seems correlated), but in this case so close to the end of the piece and possibly through hardwood, you definitely need a clearance hole to avoid splitting. It should be the exact size of the lag screw shank. Not the length of the entire lag screw, of course. Just the length of the shank. No shank? Then do a clearance hole through the cabinet piece with the exact size of the lag screw's minor diameter.
    – popham
    Commented Jan 22 at 18:16
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    Is that the center line? Or does the word "stud" mark the stud's narrow edge and the line its side? Or do those two upper marks indicate the two outer edges?
    – popham
    Commented Jan 22 at 18:34
  • @popham Lag bolts seem a bit overkill for this use. Wood screws should do as well as a job holding it to the wall, unless they support the vanity above the floor(no floor support).
    – crip659
    Commented Jan 22 at 18:41
  • Thanks all for the input! The pencil line marks the right edge of the stud, the "stud" writing is the narrow edge of the stud. Higher above, the two sets of lines are the outer edges. I think it's just one 2x4 here. At the stud in the middle, I found two 2x4's. I had read other vanity instructions that just mentioned a wood screw. This Kohler vanity called for 250-lb lag fasteners. Think I can put in one 3" screw at an angle, or straight on? With pilot hole in either case?
    – nwdiyhelp
    Commented Jan 22 at 19:07
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    @crip659, yeah, I think I agree on the overkill lag screws. My speculation was that the lag screws anticipate a gap layer of uncertain thickness (drywall, etc.) between the framing and the cabinet, where they sized pessimistically. A quick check would be if the lag screws have a length of 3-1/2" + 1/2" + cabinet bar thickness. Or, like I mentioned parenthetically, they ship 3/8" so that dummies like me don't break the bolts off and then complain about it. Or they anticipate a significant loss of strength due to people missing the centers of studs.
    – popham
    Commented Jan 22 at 19:15

2 Answers 2

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You can definitely put a screw there, but pilot for it so you don't split the rail. Don't use lags. They're absurd overkill. Use a 2-1/2" or 3" construction/drywall screw. That's all even the pros use.

It's not at all critical that your vanity be anchored to the wall as though it were a yacht. Put common wood screws in the studs you have available and don't worry about it. I would probably remove that shim so you have more tension at the cabinet sides, where it matters.

If you do find that you need additional stability, use double-sided foam tape or silicone caulk to attach your counter top around the entire cabinet. This will provide significant lateral stability.

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    Thanks - Went ahead with a 3" wood screw for the 2nd stud. The "shim" is loose so still there but not at putting pressure on the frame. I plan to put silicone around the counter top once it's on, which instructions say to do. Sounds like that's it! Thank goodness
    – nwdiyhelp
    Commented Jan 22 at 21:34
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There are strong hollow-wall anchors such as toggle bolts that you can use, the kind that install a metal widget inside the hollow wall for the screw to anchor to.

enter image description here

One that I've used before that has a great re-installation value (not that you're going to be removing and re-installing your vanity very often) is FlipToggle®. They're similar to a molly bolt but require a smaller hole in the drywall for installation (again, not necessarily a concern since your drywall hole will be concealed).

Here's a picture of the FlipToggle®:enter image description here

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