I am looking to remove an old intercom speaker from my bedroom wall and patch over the hole. I removed the speaker to find a metal mount in the wall attached between two studs.

enter image description here enter image description here inside view

More pictures here

My questions are: is it recommended to remove the metal mount? How well will spackle adhere to the metal?

Im somewhat afraid to attempt to remove any more of the wall to expose where the mount is attached to the stud in fear that it is nailed in instead of screwed.

I've been told the walls are plaster, but I'm not sure. I know I have to attach a backing board between the 2 - 2x4s and cut a piece of plasterboard or sheetrock to fit, then patch over it. I mostly concerned with whether or not I should remove the frame.

  • 1
    Your link says "You do not have permission to view this album." Please upload the photo or photos to imgur.com where we can see them.
    – Niall C.
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 4:32
  • Photos should be fixed now.
    – Chris
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 11:32
  • 10 x 8 should do.
    – Jason
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 13:39
  • excellent post and photos.
    – mike
    Commented Jun 29, 2013 at 0:32

1 Answer 1


I wouldn't try removing the frame. It appears to extend in both directions and may damage a larger section of wall.

You are right to be concerned about taping compound or spackle sticking to a metal edge. I would recommend making a patch that is larger than the opening by about an inch on each side. Then trim away the back paper and the core of the patch so that the part being put into the wall is the exact size of the hole. That will leave you with a "flange" of paper facing on hte room side that will be easier to tape and compound to blend it in.

plaster patch

Your general approach to support is right, but you may not need a brace between the studs. To support the patch, cut three pieces of 1x2 wood that are about 6 inches longer than the height of the opening. Position each piece of wood vertically in the cavity, one near the left side of the hole, one in the middle, and one near the right. To attach each strip pull it forward against the back of the plaster or plasterboard. Hold it in place by screwing through the face of the wall into the top and bottom sections of the wood strip. You can screw the plasterboard patch to these strips for support.

Finish the attachment with tape and taping compound. I would probably use mesh tape on a patch of this size and support.

  • Thanks bib for the detail response. This is along the lines that I was thinking, but I'm unsure because the frame does not sit flush with the wall on all edges. Im not sure how this is possible, but if you look at all of the pictures you can see that the top and bottom of the frame appear to protrude into the wall slightly passed the plasterboard. Im not sure if this will result in the plasterboard patch sitting slightly too far, but can I spread some spackle on the 2 x 1 to add some thickness to get a better fit?
    – Chris
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 13:58
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    Actually I think the 2 x 1s should sit tightly up against the frame even if there is a slight gap inside the wall(between the 2 x 1 and the existing plasterboard). So as long as the thickness of the frame is the same as the plasterboard, I should be okay, correct?
    – Chris
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 14:00
  • @Chris It really doesn't matter if the 1x2s are not flush with the inside of the wall. If they are tight against the inside of the frame (or the wall) they will be solid once you screw through the face of the wall into them. Once they are solid, the patch will hold tight to them.
    – bib
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 15:46
  • Thanks bib. My main concern is really getting the new plasterboard to sit flush with the wall. Is this fix dependent on the frame thickness and wall thickness being the same? or if the frame is a little thicker, will I be able to add some spackle to the 2x1s to add some extra padding to get a flush fit between the wall/frame and new plasterboard?
    – Chris
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 16:16
  • If the frame is flush on the face of the wall, its thickness relative to the wall doesn't matter. The paper flange of the patch should hold it flush with the face of wall when you screw it to the braces, even if the back of the patch does not touch the braces. The screws will support it until to tape and compound the joints. Just don't overtighten the screws, just stop when they are flush. But, if you want, you could use a bit of padding it ensure that the patch cannot be pulled lower than the surface.
    – bib
    Commented Jun 28, 2013 at 18:26

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