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Let me preface this post by saying I understand scribing the trim boards would have been best but that would have taken me too long to perform and I'm not experienced enough.

My project consists of me wrapping the bottom chord of 21 roof trusses by ripping 1x8x12 pine trim boards with a 45 degree beveled edge on the bottom side of the board. After fastening the boards to the roof truss bottom chords I am left with gaps varying from 1/4"-1/2" between the top of the board and the drywall ceiling. In addition, where the boards terminate into the vertical drywall, there is a tapered gap also varying from 1/4"-1/2".

These primed pine 1x's will be painted once the gaps are filled. What is the best way for me to fill the gaps? I'd like for it to look seamless if possible. Should I caulk, bondo, wood filler the gaps? I’d prefer not to use trim to hide the gaps.

Pictures: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WzqrA9R2_LZH04sUgCUB-6Vgt0x9NHS5

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  • If you used a different format than .heic, would make it easier to see the pics you have. I have downloaded a free converter for it, but it still is a process to open the pictures. That said, without seeing the pictures, the only way to fill the gaps, would be to caulk them, but your gaps are so big, that will look bad. You need to try to scribe what you can to reduce the size of the gaps to less than 1/4", preferably 1/8", then caulk that.
    – Jack
    Jan 15 at 15:13
  • It would be even better if you simply used SE's default, free (to you) image hosting service so that the pics remain and the question remains relevant even after you've run out of space in your google drive and decided to delete these pics. For someone who hasn't clicked on the link, this is pretty useless w/o pics and that's how it'll be in the future when you delete them...
    – FreeMan
    Jan 15 at 15:40
  • That said, scribing isn't at all difficult - even a rank rookie can do it if you have a jig saw or band saw. Even a cheap coping saw will work, though it'll take longer.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 15 at 15:42

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For a seamless look, the final covering is drywall with the inner edges taped and the outer edges finished with corner bead then all mudded.

If you are looking to use only wood the ceiling and vertical seams would be covered with a trim piece such as 1/4 round.

Finally, should you have to go with the wood only and not want the trim, you can fill the gaps with a fast drying paintable latex caulk. ( it stays flexible and is less likely to give cracks form expansion and contraction of dissimilar material.) Use foam backer rod to fill in the larger part of the gap.

The caulk needs to be applied in excess and wiped off with a drywall knife, not a finger or a sponge. The idea is remove the caulk even with the wood surface. Then leave it alone to dry. Then when all is dry you may paint. This is a labor intensive and tedious process. However adding the drywall and finishing will add time as well.

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  • Caulk?! Use the wood trim option in the answer; cove molding at least on the long horizontal top runs. It would be a lot of work to do the vertical ends and bottoms to get the joints tight so you could consider using corner blocks so you could cut all the molding square. Maybe you could use coving only on the top and run these into the corner. If you decided at that point to do the vertical ends, you could cope the vertical pieces at the top inside corners, but all this would be a lot of tedious work. Jan 15 at 16:13

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