I had my tub professionally reglazed. Overall I am not happy with the job. The guy who did the job did not turn off the water, he did stuff paper towel up the tub facet “in case of a drip” but the tub facet dripped through the paper towel and messed up the fresh glaze job. Also caulking job (which was included with the tub reglaze) was awful. I could have done a better job myself.

I have already had him come back a week later to “fix” the issues. He quickly and carelessly fixed the area that was damaged by the drip. As for the caulk, I’m pretty sure he fixed that by just putting more caulk over the caulk he had applied a week earlier. He said I won’t have to re-caulk for 10 years. But it looks BAD, sloppy, and there are gaps.

Frankly he was unprofessional and talked down to me the whole time, so I don’t even want to bother with asking him to come out again.

I think my best option would be to fix it myself, but now I’m not really looking forward to ripping out the new caulk job and starting fresh. Looking for advice on how to proceed.

The tub corner meets the wall, should this be ripped out and redone? It also looks like the caulk is overlapping with the grout. I’ve read you should not caulk over grout

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The back wall meets the tub. This is probably the best of the caulk job but I’m still thinking it should be redone. Please ignore the filthy grout, I still have to sort that out.

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The other tub corner meets the wall. This is the worst of it and my biggest area of concern. I’m assuming this definitely needs to be ripped out and redone

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Also I am wondering if I should caulk where the tub meets the tile floor? I’ve read conflicting answers on here for similar questions. I know that this spot will continue to shift and the caulk might split. But I’m worried about water dripping through the crack so I feel like it should do something to address this crack:

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  • Unprofessionalism and talking down can be strategic, but are you sure that the caulking was part of his scope of work? Judging by the bottom image where the horizontal surface turns down, the tub appears to stop short of the wall by a significant distance (it should stop at the back of the tile). And the top image appears to have a giant gap to fill also. It looks like half the gap is filled with nasty, old caulk, leaving the remainder for new caulk. You should submit additional images with the caulk removed to get good advice on this caulking job.
    – popham
    Commented Jan 14 at 22:32
  • Under the most common plumbing code, the tub to floor joint "shall" be caulked (see IPC 405.6, where I'm pretty sure that the other common plumbing code has a similar requirement).
    – popham
    Commented Jan 14 at 22:36
  • Unless it's actually grout, it looks like the old caulking is still there... that'll absolutely need to be removed for an adequate new caulking job. Commented Jan 15 at 0:15
  • I wouldn't call that questionable. I'd call it bad.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Jan 15 at 13:11

2 Answers 2


I would absolutely re-caulk that; it looks just terrible and yes, a blind dog could do a better job. That's probably the worst I've ever seen by a "tradesman". Watch some youtube vids on how to caulk with silicone... it's pretty easy. If you wet your finger well and often when you smooth the caulk it'll look really nice. Oh, and DO NOT use acrylic caulking! As for removing the existing garbage, that's not a fun job but not completely horrible. Get a sharp 18mm break-away knife, a razor-blade scraper, some mineral spirits, a small, thin, flexible putty knife, and lots of patience. There are some tools that are sold for this but I've bought a bunch of them and never used one twice. If you're at all handy you can do this.

  • Thank you for the advice Arne!! I am also wondering how to address a crack between where the tub meets the tile. I added another image if you don’t mind checking it out. Thank you :)
    – aurora
    Commented Jan 14 at 21:22
  • For colored tile like that and with those giant gaps, painter's tape for the tile edge of the joints is probably a good idea. In the bottom image it looks like the tub might have actually stopped short of the wall. Note that spot where the level surface starts turning down: There's nothing backing the caulk there. You can see some more of the same pattern as you start scanning down the vertical joint.
    – popham
    Commented Jan 14 at 22:06

I think we can all agree that caulking/sealant job is a complete joke - and that some of the grouting is also in the realm of 'amusing'.

Really, you should cut back all the sealant, and any grout where sealant ought to be; but you really need to cut back the all the existing grout & re-do it first, before moving on to the replacement sealant.

Sealant last. Remember to do it with the bathtub full, so when cured it's never under tension.

I do hope the guy actually bothered to cut back existing sealant before he re-surfaced the tub, or you're going to have an unfinished edge. Based on the rest of the job, I don't hold much hope for that.

  • The tub had “caulk tape” over old caulk (not my choice it was like that when I purchased the house) I removed the tape prior to the resurfacing. He was supposed to remove the caulk. Which I think he did but then when he came back to “fix” it he sprayed more glaze (and definitely over sprayed onto the tile and caulk). Then I think he just put more caulk over the first bad caulk job. I’m worried about cutting it out and damaging the glaze job.
    – aurora
    Commented Jan 15 at 14:06
  • I thought so, but it's gotta go. Better a 'generously wide' stripe of tidy new sealant than a skinny string of lumpy goop partly, but not entirely, covering a bum job. ;) In the end it's white on white, so you notice lumps more than width.
    – Tetsujin
    Commented Jan 15 at 14:33

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