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One room is 1-1/2" lower than the next room. I suspect the room was an add on.

I’m trying to figure out the best way of not having that 1.5” drop. All the transition pieces don’t go that big. I considered 1” or two 3/4” plywood on the concrete on top of a vapor barrier to prevent concretes natural moisture but the plywood wouldn’t be secured. The plywood would be cheaper than pouring concrete to match.

I've removed the flooring in both rooms are already down to the concrete.

Any ideas?

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  • Why wouldn't you secure the plywood. If you fit it tightly, though, you shouldn't have to.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jan 9 at 12:08
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    Note that 3/4" plywood isn't actually 3/4" thick. But if you need flush you could probably stack a layer of vinyl sheeting or something.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Jan 9 at 13:11

2 Answers 2

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Use closed cell foam insulation board as the vapor barrier, taping the joints. Overlay with sheathing (one layer for maximum stiffness or two layers for maximum flatness). Secure the assembly with flat head concrete screws. Consider using a countersink drill bit to minimize the likelihood of tear out or heads sticking up above the plane of the sheathing surface.

Alternatively you could use latex (foam-compatible) construction adhesive to secure everything without drilling. There are two slip planes, however: The concrete/foam slip plane and the foam/plywood slip plane. I suspect that the adhesive would be more expensive and less reliable.

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    The addition of the foam is a good move. The only thing I may do differently would be use 2 layers of 3/8" plywood, or if the tolerances allow, 3/8" and 1/2", 1/2" going down first and the 3/8' staggered over the other joints. Where it meets the other floor, glue/fasten a 1X, so there is no mild movement between the original and new. Also, screw it all down too as you suggest.
    – Jack
    Commented Jan 9 at 15:39
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    @Jack, why the two layers? The 3/4" floor sheathing is gettable with tongue and groove on the long edges (I would prefer all 4 edges). I guess the tongue and groove should be on the short edges given the strength axis and elastic foam layer.
    – popham
    Commented Jan 9 at 20:33
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    It would make the plywood monolithic over the whole area. The insulation would be great for the thermal break, but where the tapcons go into the edges would compress a bit more than perhaps desired. Making it 2 layers screwed together first to bond/secure it all together, then there will not be any concern for any edge to misalign with the next. I don't see a whole lot of tapcons needed over the area, just enough to keep it to the surface it is resting on.
    – Jack
    Commented Jan 10 at 2:30
  • @Jack, my count was 15 Tapcons per sheet (2 ft centers) and therefore 5 USD per sheet. I think you're right on the sheathing (I'll add a note to the answer). Glue between your two layers would make them stiffness competitive with the 3/4", but I've got a list of reasons not to do that. My reservation against the double layer is whether the stiffness of 3/4" is necessary on top of the foam. Mock ups. You. Me. 1:00 Saturday at HD.
    – popham
    Commented Jan 10 at 3:47
  • You are on, see you at HD :P. I don't think the stiffness of of the 3/4" is needed either with the backing of the foam there. Depending on the flooring type, 3/4' would be desirable, whether it be nail down strip floor or maybe even tile. If it is LVP, it just needs to stay flat. The tapcon schedule is spot on. The double layer again to reiterate , is for the sole purpose of controlling the seams in the field.... and to bring it up to thickness. Yes, 3/4" will do it in one layer, but the 4' sides may become an issue. Then again, maybe not. I would not want to find out the hard way.
    – Jack
    Commented Jan 10 at 4:32
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I like popham's answer, but those particular materials are fairly expensive. Investigate gyp-crete companies in your area (the same material used as sound-deadening apartment building subfloors). They may be able to stop by and fill 'er up for roughly the same cost, saving you a ton of work.

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