2

Continuing off this thread, I've made adjustments.

I am now planning to build three walls to enclose a walk in closet and would like to know if anything sticks out to the experienced DIYer as areas to watch out for.

I've identified all floor joists, ceiling joists and wall studs. I can't tie into ceiling joists but can hit floor joists for the two smaller walls. The door will be 30" wide and I will need to bring boards for a closet system through that "closet access"

Current plan is below and feedback is welcome as this is my first time framing walls. diagram

I'll also attach a pic of the space

closet

5
  • @FreeMan, I hear that. I just gotta tear up a bunch of drywall or carpet to add the blocking. If it's necessary I'll do it, but my question is more like, is it necessary Dec 20, 2023 at 14:21
  • 1
    I haven't found any, though it has probably been a few years since I seriously looked. I have contemplated writing my own floor plan software numerous times over the years, but like so many other bright ideas I just haven't had the time to do it. Dec 20, 2023 at 14:59
  • 3
    It looks like there is a vent in the ceiling. If that is over the closet area (looks like it, but not sure) and there are no others in the room then the main part of the room will not get enough HVAC. Dec 20, 2023 at 15:01
  • Sketchup is pretty easy once you understand it. A couple of online tutorials very definitely helped me. I was bewildered until then... Also: Software Recommendations.
    – FreeMan
    Dec 20, 2023 at 15:19
  • 1
    @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact good point. It's inside the closet but there's a vent in the other part of the room. Dec 21, 2023 at 1:35

2 Answers 2

6

Given that there's no load and no active door support is needed, you don't have much to worry about. Some tips:

  • Attaching bottom wall plates to just subfloor is completely acceptable. That's how it's done in new construction as well. Use screws if you like, to prevent the odd squeak, but all it takes is a little shear hold. Use a few dabs of construction adhesive if you're worried. It's not even the end of the world if you don't remove the carpet, but I like to cut a 4" channel so the framing is all the same height.

  • Attach to framing in the ceiling where you have overlap. Elsewhere, just use some construction adhesive to the drywall and fit your studs well (lightly snug). Drywall holds surprisingly well in shear, and without a swinging door it's not a concern at all. Consider doubling the top plate of any long, unsupported runs to add lateral stiffness. I don't see a need here, though, given the nearby supporting corners and the short runs.

  • If you're careful you won't need to tape to the ceiling and retexture. Work slowly to avoid damage from lumber and glue. Fit your upper drywall sheets first (horizontally), nice and snug to the ceiling. Mask the ceiling, then flat tape the wall to fill the edge depression and screw holes. Remove the masking tape and apply a small, coved bead of paintable white caulk there. Done and done.

  • Use a standard door framing strategy, with trimmer studs and a light header. Size it so you can add a door later if you like (nominal door width plus 2¼", 81" trimmers). Allow trimmer and king stud to give clearance for casing.

  • Building the whole works with screws will help avoid drywall damage. Inexpensive 3" gold screws are just fine for fastening plates and toe-screwing studs. I like torx drive for less slip. Self-drilling (notch-point) screws are more expensive but start easier and don't split studs as readily.

  • Use good carpet protection. Drywall dust never comes completely out and drywall mud and paint are a pain to clean up. Self-adhesive plastic is great to prevent dust accumulation and stains. Otherwise, tape down painters' cloth, tarps, or cardboard with residue-free tape.


Unsolicited design advice:

I'd seriously consider putting the door at the front corner (facing the window) with a right-hand swing (if a door is installed). The cove at the back left in the photo is prime shelving real estate, and access should be closer to the room. Then you can reduce the 67" dimension to just what's needed for the door, reducing awkwardness at the window and letting more light into the bedroom. Also, you'd get great natural light in the closet.

7
  • 1
    I would very definitely cut out the carpet before installing the walls. Eventually the carpet will need to be replaced. Having to cut the carpet against the edge of the drywall will simply make that replacement more difficult, while pulling up already cut carpet is a piece of cake.
    – FreeMan
    Dec 20, 2023 at 15:22
  • Meh. Cut now... cut later. It's the same horse. :P
    – isherwood
    Dec 20, 2023 at 15:26
  • 2
    Maybe so. I found it very easy to lay down my 2x4s for the bottom plate of my closet, mark the carpet with Sharpie™, move the 2x4, then cut the carpet with a hook blade. It also made it easier to accurately measure heights against the hard subfloor instead of the squishy carpet. :shrug:
    – FreeMan
    Dec 20, 2023 at 15:29
  • Some great tips here. Does the location of the ceiling vent negate your suggestion about relocating the door? Dec 21, 2023 at 6:00
  • I'm not worried about HVAC as there are two vents, I'm just not sure I can relocate the vent so I have to work around it. Also I'm not hanging a door, the entryway will be open Dec 21, 2023 at 17:17
2

This is a non structural wall. Anything that won't fall over when someone leans on it, or create a fire hazard, is fine.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.