Molding detailHi all. I'm trying to match in wood the metal door/window casing in my 1930s apartment (example doorframe on the left). In one room, a pair of newer built-ins covers a few inches on either side of a large window, and I'd like to reestablish the look of the complete window frame by attaching some appropriate trim along each built-in.

Problem is, after scouring the big boxes, lumber yards, online mill catalogs, etc., I can’t find any trim that's even close. Cutting my own would require too big an investment, a bigger apartment, and deaf neighbors. :) From what I’ve read, custom-made would also cost a lot given that I only need about 10’ worth. And even if I could find big-enough scrap pieces from another apartment, working with metal (covered in years of who-knows-what kind of paint) would be a real challenge. So, I’m left with assembling my own.

I think I’ll have a pretty good match if I glue together some stock 1” cove and 2 lattice strips as shown (red is the final profile, green is the lattice). Two-part question: first, is this a workable approach or am I missing something that would make more sense? And second, since the piece will extend into the window bay, if I go this route should I add some kind of backing piece for support (maybe something like this that wouldn’t be too visible)?

Thanks for your input!

  • 2
    As trim it should work. It really only needs to be strong enough for nails to hold and look good.
    – crip659
    Dec 10, 2023 at 19:17

1 Answer 1


What you propose is quite feasible, especially if you only need 10 ft. A bunch of cheap plastic spring clamps will help in gluing up the pieces. Do not try to add both pieces together at the same time, it will be an effort in futility. You will need clamps about every 8" or so.

If you have scrap wood, I make clamps out of scraps that work in a pinch, using a wedge to draw the joints tight. I make the wood into a "U" shape with the inside of the U slightly larger that the overall dimension of the finished piece, then use a slim wood wedge to draw the pieces together, within the inside of the U shapes.

You may need to find a way to keep the pieces to be glued, flat and in plane with the surfaces you need to align them to. A large wood surface would be good, then small nails can be driven to control excess movement while doing the clamping. Add wax paper, if you go that way under the pieces, so you do not glue your work to the surface. Use a full bed of glue, keeping a slightly dampened sponge handy to clean the excess squeeze out.

There is a cove available out my way, NW USA, the molding profile number is MH33408 or MH33410 or MH33412, depending on if you need a 8', 10' or 12' piece. It measures 1 1/16" it will get you a lot closer that the 11/16ths or 3/4" material.

  • 1
    Great answer. One additional point - if you don't need a single 10 foot piece, but instead you need several shorter pieces that together add up to 10 feet - you will find it easier to glue up shorter pieces, and will need fewer clamps if you do them one at a time.
    – Mark
    Dec 10, 2023 at 21:52
  • @Mark yes very good on the note about the shorter stuff
    – Jack
    Dec 10, 2023 at 22:54
  • Agreed, that's a great answer, thank you! To respond to a couple of things, I need to end up with two 5' pieces. My local place has 1" cove, but not 1/4" x 1" lattice -- the stock widths are 7/8" or 1-1/8" -- but I've reached out to see what can be done. One thing I didn't mention was fitting the finished pieces to the existing window. Rather than trying to cope two ends and risk ruining a whole piece, my plan is to make each as 2 too-long pieces, cope 1 end of each pair, and then finger-joint them to exact size. Thanks again! Dec 10, 2023 at 23:46
  • Coping? Really? Typical window casings have miter joints with caulking that then gets painted. Dec 12, 2023 at 1:09

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