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I try to connect a smart switch with an integral ground wire. There is no ground wire connected to my old switch. Can I connect the integral ground wire to the small hole circled in red in my photo. This small hole is the only one that fits my screw. The holes on the back side are too big. enter image description here

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    This is a perfect example of why all wires coming into a box are supposed to be at least 6” long / long enough to protrude out of the box by 3” when straightened. If those ground wires weren’t cut illegally short, you could wire-nut device grounds to them.
    – nobody
    Nov 30, 2023 at 2:11
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    That box looks like it's almost 1/2" recessed too. Not gonna make the inspector happy. Nov 30, 2023 at 3:34

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Use the screw that has the green device ground wire. Remove the current green wire, put in a “pigtail” (a piece of bare or green insulated wire about 6” long) and attach (using a wire nut, lever nut, etc) all the device grounds to that.

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  • ….hi, so you are saying remove the green wire on the 4th screw (extreme right). Add a 6 -inch pigtail to this screw. Then cap the loose end of the pigtail with all the 4 ground wires from my 4 smart switch? So grounding all 4 smart switches to the 2nd junction box ? I have three ground wires coming out of the J- box that are each attached to my existing switches only one switch on the left that does not have a ground. Can I connect the grounds like in the photo I have added at the end of my post?
    – Raffi
    Nov 30, 2023 at 16:22
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I found a video of your box.

It has two grounding screws pre-mounted per section, so you ground there as well.

Just like the gang to the right.

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  • You found a video of the OP’s actual box, or one like it? Link? Maybe draw an arrow on a copy of their picture of the screw they should be using - I don’t see any empty screws in the pictures they posted.
    – nobody
    Nov 30, 2023 at 14:03
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On metal boxes, ground wires go to the box first.

Switches with a metal yoke (thing the screws go through) automagically pick up ground from the metal box, via the mounting screws. You do not need a ground wire. (Which means in a smart switch, you can't test with the switch pulled out, if it is one that is UL listed to use ground for its internal power).

On some boxes there is only one ground screw. However yours appears to have two ground screws per section, and each screw takes up to 2 wires (they don't need to be looped, just torqued to spec). So you have an embarrassment of riches in ground terminals. Try to have the 2 wires reasonably match each other, e.g. don't put a #12 Romex wire with a #18 lead off a switch.

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  • if it is one that is UL listed to use ground for its internal power Well, except for the "use neutral if you have it and if not you can use ground" switches" (one of those was in a recent question), those will work provided you actually have neutral (which that question did...) and connect it (which that question didn't...) Nov 30, 2023 at 22:35
  • Hi, sorry I am not good at this. I would like to know if my last image for the ground connection is ok? I am using Kasa smart switches which is UL listed as indicated on the back on the switches. They all have integral ground wires. Box 2,3 and 4 have ground wires coming out of the j boxes, to which I can easily attach the smart switch grounds.
    – Raffi
    Dec 1, 2023 at 0:04
  • I have neutrals for all switches bundled behind the switches, which is not an issue.
    – Raffi
    Dec 1, 2023 at 0:25

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