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I added a bunch of pics to help explain what I'm working with here, but essentially I want to frame a door opening in an open space to create a closet, and fix some crappy work done by previous owners. Full disclosure that this will be my first venture into woodworking and drywall, but I'm confident I can get it done.

Biggest concern is whether I'm going to be able to attach the studs for the door opening to the existing walls (not sure if that's even necessary if I have a sole plate in the floor and a top plate in the ceiling?). Also just curious to know how the existing wall was constructed. The house was built in the 30s and is mostly plaster walls, but someone re-did the bathroom with drywall and I think made some modifications here at the same time.

If anyone has observations or suggestions that could be helpful, I'd really appreciate it!

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UPDATE: Door is installed... just need to add the casing (and doorknob) and paint. Thank you everyone for the help!!!

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    Next to last picture is just exposed corner beads, nothing to get wound up about. For that stub wall, you might make your life easier (and your closet door slightly larger, potentially) if you strip the drywall back to the center of the stud that's already there, rather than adding another stud. Assuming the usual 1/2 drywall, that would be back 1/2+3/4 or 1-1/4" from the present edge. That will also get rid of the corner beads.
    – Ecnerwal
    Oct 25, 2023 at 17:43
  • The WTF picture is just a small piece of drywall covering a stud. The metal pieces are corner pieces instead of tape. So just remove that drywall and metal to the top and add your king/jack studs. Just take good measurements before cutting to get the right size door/s.
    – crip659
    Oct 25, 2023 at 17:46
  • Spec out the door that you're going to use before proceeding any further. Can you get away with only stubbing out a wall on the right? Putting the door's casing tight to the end of the wall on the left would save you quite a bit of work. To notch the trim on the right wall, most people would use a tool called an "oscillating multi-tool."
    – popham
    Oct 25, 2023 at 18:09
  • Thank you all! So helpful. @Ecnerwal - that is great advice and I think will allow me to put in a 30" door instead of the 28" I spec'd out based on the size of the opening. What is the best way to strip the drywall back to the middle of the stud? Same multi-tool that was recommended to notch the trim?
    – Wes
    Oct 25, 2023 at 19:11
  • @Wes if you're referring to the end with the two beads, it'll most likely be covered entirely by joint compound (mud) to produce a flat finish, otherwise the two beads would have a concave appearance between them (as the beads sit on-top of the drywall).
    – Matthew
    Oct 25, 2023 at 20:45

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This looks like a fairly standard framing and drywall job, so I'll just drop a few tips here.

  • Remove the metal corner bead from the existing corner. This will reduce its protrusion and allow for a flatter finish job later.

  • Anchor the new framing wherever you find framing behind the drywall using 3" screws.

  • Where you lack backing, attach to drywall with construction adhesive. Drywall is plenty strong in shear to add significant stability.

  • You could also open the walls to add blocking where you expect high stress, such as where door hinges would reside.

  • Follow standard framing practice for the door opening. Use a supported header, and be sure you know what your new rough opening should be for the door type you plan to use.

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