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enter image description hereI've been told I need to have fascia wrap removed to inspect and replace any damaged fascia boards. Then new fascia wrap would be installed. Is that difficult or impossible to do without having to remove or disturb installed drip edge, or risking damage to the roof? I'm trying to figure out if I should take care of fascia wrap/boards before considering replacing the roof. Is this a service many roofers are willing to do in your experience?

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If the fascias are just needed to be inspected, are there signs showing potential issues like discoloration at the joints as if water was getting in behind the wrap and rotting the material underneath?

I guess that question could have been left in the comments but to address your concerns, most of the fascia covering I seen that were installed and the ones I installed are done after the roof edging and roof is installed. All the nails/screws holding it should be accessible. Some may be placed under the lip of the drip edge, but they can be removed the same as they went in, by gently raising the edge and with the proper nail puller, remove them and the fascia.

Most certainly pop rivets are involved, and hopefully sealant too at the folds of corners. Those are drilled out with an 1/8" drill bit.

Most facia when installed does not need a lot of nails. The bottom edge in many cases is held in place by the way it is bent to go around the base material at the bottom. The top only needs 2 fasteners to keep it in place, since it is, or should be tucked under the drip edge, so no water can get in from the top. Most water gets in from the vertical joints that are not lapped enough or corners that are not folded properly and/or not sealed. The only other way moisture will get in is by condensation, which is uncontrollable, that is why weep holes are made in the bottom edge if the fascia is bent like a "J". Some facias are bent like an "L", this type will not trap condensation or any other water infiltration, but need to be riveted at the bottom in a few places to keep it intact.

The reason the material only needs a few fasteners is, it is a very rigid material. The bends at the bottom will keep it straight. The top edge is kept straight by the drip edge that covers it, although it may deflect a bit under it, but is usually covered by a gutter on the drip edge, not so on the rakes. If many fasteners are used, the metal and in some cases vinyl, will expand and buckle between the fasteners, making it look unsightly. This can be avoided by using a slot cutter to make elongated holes for nailing, so the metal can move as needed while expanding and contracting.

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  • I've no drip edge. I plan to re-roof house too. The top 1-2" of fascia wrap is flared out, with top edge wrap same height as l top edge of fascia board but ~1" gap between them. Have you ever seen such? It'd require a longer, undesirable drip edge to span the gap to avoid dumping water into gap, and there would be a >1" horizontal extension of drip edge and shingle overlap which could allow water and wind to blow under shingles. Per GAF, drip edge should be installed first under underlayment and WeatherWatch ice & water shield.
    – Jessi
    Oct 21, 2023 at 16:11
  • I read if roof & fascia are replaced at same time, first roof edge shingles are installed, then fascia is replaced. Why can't fascia work be first, or can it? Then when house is reroofed a less unsightly, more durable, protective drip edge suitable for the straight style fascia wrap and gutter position could be installed. It'd eliminate the possibility of a roofer needing to disturb/remove recently installed drip edge, new I&W shield & underlayment to replace fascia which would then mean retrofitting drip edge so it'd not be under I&W/underlayment which could void warranties and is not ideal.
    – Jessi
    Oct 21, 2023 at 17:37
  • One roofer said if he were replacing roof, he'd have to cut down wrap ~1" to remove flared top around entire perimeter to install drip edge. Usual drip edge would drop water into the gap, so was not an option, but he said longer drip edge would run into top edge of wrap because wrap is same height as board but 1" away. My understanding is drip edge is made to, and needs to, slope down a bit so it would hit inside top of wrap. Could roof be done first, and then if needed have roof edge tarped to prevent normal size drip edge dumping water into gap until fascia boards/wrap could be replaced?
    – Jessi
    Oct 21, 2023 at 18:11
  • By the way - thanks for your first response, which gave some good information. Besides questions above, do you think J-shaped or L -shaped fascia wrap would be best?
    – Jessi
    Oct 21, 2023 at 18:19
  • I prefer the J type, to me it looks proper. That is only an esthetic preference. The way the wood fascia is profiled, along with how the soffit (the underside of the overhang) is installed, if it has a finished soffit, will dictate the style of fascia to use. I do not understand about the one roofer cutting the 1" of the facia (wrap) nor how the top is flared out in your first comment. I have seen fascia with 2 opposing 90 degree bends at the top to mimic a "rake mold" but that needs material behind it to aid in it's securing in place ___,----- To the left I attempted to "draw" the edge (cont
    – Jack
    Oct 22, 2023 at 2:39

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