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We recently had our bathroom remodeled. The contractor that did the work is well regarded around town and did a wonderful job.

My wife and I purchased all of the materials. For the shower we decided to go with this: Elan Matte Gold 56-in to 60-in x 74-in Frameless Sliding Shower Door (Lowes.com link). As you can tell it wasn’t a cheap purchase.

When installing it, the contractor struggled with it all day to prevent it from opening on its own. A little tune up here, a little turn here. Literally all day. Each adjustment he made just didn’t help. Everything, from the walls to the pan to the top bar is absolute flush.

After he left, a few weeks later I had a glass and window guy out (unrelated to the above) and asked him if he could take a look at it to prevent it from sliding open. He also made some adjustments here and there to no avail. It stills opens on its own. The kids the use it daily are frustrated with it and of course I am too as I don’t want water all over the ground during showers.

What can I do here? Should I call the shower door manufacturer to get their recommendation? Get a different door? Is there like a magnet mechanism I can get so when the door is closed it engages with a magnet on the wall? Maybe something I can add to the top rail to add drag so it doesn’t slide back?

Image of shower door installed in bathroom
click to embiggen

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    Is the bar absolutely level? If not, it needs remounting. If so, the wheels need adjusting. Oct 12, 2023 at 2:22
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    The wheels can be adjusted! You can pop the caps off and use a hex-like tool. Each turn moves the door up or down ever-so-slightly. They have this so the door becomes level if there is anything off. These adjustments are what both the professionals went to first.
    – RS3
    Oct 12, 2023 at 15:59
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    @RS3, I addressed this below. That leveling affordance at the wheels is so that the door can close tightly against an out of plumb shower wall. Rotating the door itself will not disrupt the door's ghostly opening in any way. If you lift the back of your car to ride 2" higher than the front, then your car in neutral still will not spontaneously move across perfectly level ground. It's the slope of the ground that causes the car in neutral to move.
    – popham
    Oct 13, 2023 at 2:33
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    @RS3, see step 5 from pdf.lowes.com/productdocuments/…: "Note that the rollers have a built-in mechanism that will provide adjustment for walls that are not 100% perpendicular to the floor." And then later under that same step, there's "Once the rollers are properly adjusted and the door sits flush against the wall in the closed position, the adjustment will be complete."
    – popham
    Oct 13, 2023 at 2:43
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    The contractor that did the work is well regarded around town and did a wonderful job Maybe they are good with tile and plumbing, but not with mechanicals? Oct 15, 2023 at 15:15

5 Answers 5

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Obviously the horizontal bar slopes down when the door is closed. It could be out of level. It could be deflecting under the door weight to give itself downward slope.

You need to reposition the bar. If levelness is the problem, then you need to reposition the end(s) so that it's level. Maybe even err a little on the side of sloping down toward the closed position.

If deflection is the problem, then you need to reposition the end(s) so that the slope at each wheel is equal but opposite when the door is in the closed position. Again, it might be wise to err a little on the side of sloping down toward the closed position.

Either way, it's your contractor's problem. The marketing materials say that the "wall mount brackets have a 10mm adjustability built in with elliptical screw holes." Naively I would expect that this means a total of 20mm adjustment for levelness, but they may be measuring the "elliptical screw hole" length instead of the length from center of fastener at top-of-slot to center of fastener at bottom-of-slot. The contractor may have blown the levelness of those screws beyond the tolerance allowed by that 20mm, and maybe they've been looking for any solution except fixing the blown levelness. Drag the contractor back, but this time tell him what's wrong (the bar's slope needs adjustment). Make sure he moves it. If he runs out of slot, I can imagine a few work-arounds, but that's his business.

It's possible that some construction guys believe that the door's leveling affordances impact your ghostly opening problem. This is a flawed understanding of the door's mechanics. The door's leveling affordances are for getting the door edge parallel with the wall that it closes against. You need to goof with the bar's leveling affordances (those "elliptical screw holes") to fix your problem.

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I have a very similar shower door system and I have some tips:

  1. The stationary glass is holding up the center of the rod. You should check the levelness of the rod and if the center is not higher than both ends, then you can make minor adjustments by loosening the center support with an allen wrench, pushing up on the bar, then tightening it again. The middle needs to be higher so that when the door is closed, it's sloped to the wall and when it's open, it's sloped to the other wall.
  2. Sometimes the rollers get dirty and can cause them to want to roll to one side so I periodically clean them with a rag while I'm showering. I do this by putting the wet rag on the roller and then opening and closing the door while the roller turns. This typically fixes my issues for the most part

If for some reason it was installed incorrectly, leaving no room for adjustment, you may be screwed. You would either have to somehow make the hole in the glass bigger or find a way to raise the center piece of the glass which holds up the bar somehow.

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    +1 for leveling (or cambering a little) with the stationary glass. Just remember that the glass probably wasn't designed for carrying much.
    – popham
    Oct 12, 2023 at 20:40
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Should I call the shower door manufacturer to get their recommendation?

Absolutely, positively 100% yes!!

Because everyone has spent so much time working with this particular door, there may just be a manufacturing defect with it that's causing it to not stay shut.

There may be no manufacturer issue with it at all, but that's always an excellent place to start troubleshooting.

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Contrary to what you have heard, your contractor is bad at his job. Did he use one of these while installing this? Level

I don't think that he did.

That object is called a level, it makes certain that things are level, which means that things are flat in reference to gravity.

The bar that your glass door runs along is sloped. this is why it rolls open. If the bar had been properly leveled, the door would not roll.

Leveling things is extremely easy to do and takes only a little bit of knowledge. Hence why I said that your contractor is bad at his job.

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    And if he did use a level, he should know to try it the other way round to make sure that the level is not faulty. Oct 13, 2023 at 18:02
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    @Joe Phillips had an interesting suggestion, where the bar can be cambered with the fixed panel. The contractor may have installed the moving door before tightening the stationary panel in place. If the bar isn't stiff enough to span from wall to wall without that "column" at midspan, then the manufacturer's rail and poor instructions may be the problem, not the contractor. The way he split the tile layout around that niche was the only quality signal I could get from the images, and that impressed me.
    – popham
    Oct 13, 2023 at 18:25
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I too thought of the magnetic latch option for my shower door not staying closed. It moves back an inch or so, ever so slowly, once I shut it. I could not find a suitable latch or guide/bumper/catch anywhere. What I am trying to do now is put a little bump in the channel the door rolls on. So the wheels roll over the bump just before they get to the end, while I am shutting it, but cannot roll back over the bump on their own. They sell little silicone sticky pads for putting ont the back of cabinet doors to silence them. Going to use those and see how it goes.

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