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Had someone who was well recommended locally fit engineered wood floors in our living/dining room and hallway. I love the floor but really hate the beading. He left a ~2cm gap next to the wall and said it was for the beading but the beading he used is flat to the floor, not embedded, so it floats above this gap. This might be totally normal, I'm not sure, but it means we can't just remove the beading. At the time, I didn't like it but we'd just gone through a stressful Christmas-time house move and just figured I'd get over it since I couldn't see how he could possibly fix it. Ultimately the plan is to fill and paint them, but it's just one of a huge list of things we haven't got round to yet. It's about 6 months on now and all four threshold boards have either fallen off or are coming up when stepped on and some of the beading in the hallway is also falling off. We have two kids and a dog so of course there's wear and tear, but I'd still expect it to last at least a year, not a few months. The beading in general looks really bad, there are some shaped corners around the doorways that he's not attempted and that's fair enough but I feel like he could have advised me about it beforehand so I would be aware of it beforehand. He asked if we wanted beading or not, the way he described it sounded better but I really wish we hadn't had it now and the floors just went all the way to the walls. Is there anything we can do to fix this? Is there nicer beading that would look better on the ends? We do have a fair bit of flooring left but I just can't really see how we could fill the gaps without pulling the floor up. He didn't leave us any spare beading. I have considered calling him back to fix it but I feel like he was happy to leave it like that and if there's a repair to be done, I'd rather someone else do it. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

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You have to have a gap, for expansion - otherwise your boards will squeeze against the edges then pop-up in the middle of the room if they get warm &/or damp.

There are two ways to do it - leave a gap covered by beading round the edge, which should be fastened only to the skirting, not the floor; or trim or lift the skirting so the gap is invisible underneath it.

Obviously the second is a lot more work & potentially messier, so people go for the beading instead. It looks like the fitter did cut out the bottom of the door architraves, which is considerably simpler than trying to make a fit around them, so this is standard. You could fill that slight gap with caulk, which would make it less visible. Caulk shouldn't put up much of a fight against expansion.

The gap between the rooms should be covered by a piece of trim-strip, same as you would for carpet.

You solution for the edges really is to either just re-fix the existing trim, or replace it with something that looks more like the wood of the flooring.

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  • There is a third option, which is to undercut the entire skirting board (what we Yanks call baseboard) prior to floor installation.
    – Huesmann
    Sep 4, 2023 at 12:19
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    That was already the second option.
    – Tetsujin
    Sep 4, 2023 at 12:50

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