We would like to install some double doors for an office using something like this master craft double door kit.

Here is a picture of the opening

The "rough opening" height with drywall in place is ~89.25" (so maybe ~89.75" with drywall removed). Our width seems compatible, at about 58.75". My question is how do we properly reduce the height of this opening by ~7"? I've seen things like furring strips for smaller reductions, so I'm curious if this is just going to be about nailing/gluing furring strips and 2x4's together or if there is a more proper way to approach this.

  • 2
    The top is easy since it just needs to hold drywall in place. A 2x4 across and one or two short 2x4s between. The width will give problems, 60 inches is bigger than 58.75. Not sure if is with/without door frame. You will need to make the opening bigger, get a smaller door width or cut the door to size.
    – crip659
    Commented Sep 3, 2023 at 14:53
  • 1
    There’s an equation here: is the cost of a custom door + jamb > cost of modifying your opening? If I was in your shoes, I’d talk to a real door place, saying ‘my RO is 89x58-1/2’. Framing, drywall, paint all costs you time, which should have value (even if you’d call it an enjoyable project). Commented Sep 3, 2023 at 15:53

1 Answer 1


You will also need to expand the opening as the door you've selected is wider than your opening.

Remove the drywall from the opening and surrounding areas to expose the framing members.

Be careful here, chances are you're going to run into the king stud/trimmer pack. If this is the case you're going to have to build a new header and depending on your skill level this might be a stopping point and will require calling a local contractor to assist with this project. The rough opening needs to be 62" x 82". If you're not sure what you're looking at, STOP and call a local contractor for help.

After removing the drywall from the inside of the opening you'll still need an additional 2¼" of width which will require removing some framing, only proceed if your certain of what you're doing. Once you've got the width figured out it is time to fur down the head, (if it wasn't moved down with the reframing of the opening)

Cut a couple 5½" cripples, nail or screw the end ones in place and fasten the new header in place. Cut and install several more cripples, at a 16" on center layout.

I would recommend predrilling the screw holes where it meets the existing opening so you don't have to fight it as much, or nail it if you have a nail gun, your choice.

Once you've got all the framing in place, cover with drywall and you should be set to install the door.

  • I'm assuming what you mean is that we can't just remove framing that is supporting the header... if we need to then we need to rebuild the header. If we're lucky and it's trimming/furring coming in from the frame, that part can be removed. Is that accurate? If so I think we'd recognize the difference, but I appreciate your words of caution!
    – Geet
    Commented Sep 3, 2023 at 15:21
  • @Geet Correct. My advise would be to remove the surrounding drywall, get everything opened up and update your post with some photos so we can see exactly what is there.
    – matt.
    Commented Sep 3, 2023 at 15:35

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