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I have been unable to find a ripping chain for my chain saw (70 drive links, pitch .325" LP, gauge 0.043") and the chain saw distributor confirmed there are none available.

However, they have suggested that I take a regular (i.e. crosscut) chain that is normally filed at 30-35° and file it at 10° to provide the ripping function.

Does that sound like a sound advice? Will a regular chain filed at 10° indeed become a ripping chain?

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    What angle are other ripping chains filed at?
    – Solar Mike
    Aug 31, 2023 at 7:25
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    Was the distributor just a store or a chain saw repair shop? Repair shops usually have more choice.
    – crip659
    Aug 31, 2023 at 10:01
  • @SolarMike I suspect that real ripping chains will differ from regular ones not only (or not at all) by the angle but by the design/form of the teeth etc. So I'm not sure if it matters.
    – Greendrake
    Aug 31, 2023 at 11:02
  • @crip659 It was the head office of the chain saw brand in my country.
    – Greendrake
    Aug 31, 2023 at 11:04
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    @ron The saw is Makita UC013GZ. "Ripping" means capable of cutting along the timber grain/length. I just need to cut some flat pieces of timber out of whole round log segments about 70cm long.
    – Greendrake
    Aug 31, 2023 at 12:49

1 Answer 1

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This is indeed how it was done before anyone made ripping chains, so if you can't get a ripping chain in your area, filing at 5-10° (chisel-tooth) will give a basic ripping chain.

You may also want to drop the guides (the part that limits how much tooth gets into the wood, just in front of the actual tooth on the link) a bit for more cutting depth. It will probably need to be adjusted somewhat just due to the amount of tooth you'll lose going from 30-35° to 5-10°

Both of these may be done more consistently if you have access to a jigged chain grinder. Hand filing can certainly be done, but a grinder is usually better at getting all the teeth exactly the same. Especially with a major geometry change.

Be aware that this makes the chain more dangerous in terms of kickback (a limited concern if used only in a chainsaw mill, but if you are freehanding you need to know your risks so you can manage them.)

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