I recently installed a Delta 500 acrylic tub w/ matching surround. Now I am attempting to install the glass sliding door, but have run into a problem w/ studs or lack thereof. One side has a stud, the other does not.

The instructions for the tub and surround were fairly straight forward. The directions for the glass are less so. What irks me is by the time you get to the door, the tub and surround are already installed. Perhaps I shouldn’t have done the finish work on the drywall before getting to the door, figured it would have been easier without it in the way. The instructions do say it requires studs to mount the bar into.

There is nothing behind the surround, just studs. Looked like the one that would have been a match to the stud in the opposite wall was cut to let drain pipes for the sinks to go through.

I am considering using pull toggles for the side that doesn’t have a stud, but I am concerned that the surround isn’t strong enough to support the weight.

Only alternative I have is to open the wall in the adjoining bathroom and tack some pieces of 2x4 to the studs to get something solid behind the mounting point.

Has anyone run into this before? I looked online and all I could find was installations using toggles into tile walls w/ either drywall or cement board backers.

Thank you in advance.


1 Answer 1


See page 10, step 2 of the instructions linked on the product listing:

If you do not have a stud in the area shown this door CAN NOT be installed, call Delta Shower Doors Customer Care Team at 1-800-964-4850.

The lesson here is to understand all phases of a project before you begin, rather than tackling them independently in stages. Prep work is often critical for later aspects.

That said, the above is mostly legal CYA language. Your surround is almost certainly strong enough to support the door without a stud on one side. I would not rule out a simple stainless sheet metal screw installation backed by permanent double-sided foam tape behind the entire channel. Toggles are ok but require very large holes. I'm not sure that's warranted.

Given the solid top rail and side channels, all force is essentially in shear, which the screws and tape (along with any caulk beads) would handle just fine. Of course, you void your warranty in doing so, but that wouldn't bother me much for this type of product.

YMMV. Use common sense. Pilot the screws properly and don't overtighten (strip) them.


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