I am aiming to babyproof this unit to the wall. It is three separate, vertical pieces. For the rightmost and leftmost piece, for where they are, there is one stud behind each of them.

I can secure them to the wall by either using the default drywall anchors they came with or I also have these and can secure them to either the drywall (two on each corner) or the stud in the center.

Which is more secure / recommended?

Is there a better, more safe way to go about this?

Thank you

  • Two screws into stud...
    – keshlam
    Commented Aug 24, 2023 at 15:41

6 Answers 6


I would not rely on either drywall anchors or the Amazon thingies. I would attempt to find the wall studs behind the units, then drive decent wood screws through the unit into the studs.

If the back of the unit is thin masonite or paperboard, I have used L brackets driven in to the top of the cabinet, aligned with the studs, then driven screws through the brackets to the studs:

Cabinet mounted with L-bracket

  • 3
    "A decent wood screw" would be something like a cabinet screw which is designed to support a lot of weight (think how heavy your dishes are) and have a built in washer head to help ensure that the cabinet doesn't pull off the screw. Note: not a recommendation of GRK, just a fan & the first example that came to mind.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Aug 21, 2023 at 17:28
  • One thing I forgot to mention -- because of the molding on the floor, there is about a 3/4" gap between the back of the unit and the wall. What is the best way to secure this to the wall given the gap?
    – Marc J
    Commented Aug 21, 2023 at 21:17
  • 2
    You could use a longer screw that accounts for the gap (Consider an inch of penetration into the stud, 1/2" nominal through the drywall, 3/4" space behind the cabinet, thickness of the cabinet back and L bracket if needed: add all that up for the screw length you'd need. Use cabinet Screws with flat washer-like wide heads, like @FreeMan recommends.) You could also use a 3/4" piece of wood as a spacer at the top. If you can pre-drill holes in the wood at the correct locations you can drive the screws through the wood, or lay a strip of wood on top of the screw shafts while tightening, Commented Aug 21, 2023 at 22:13
  • 1
    100% recommend putting some 3/4" plywood or "1x" dimensional lumber (actually 3/4" thick) behind the cabinet to fill in the space @MarcJ. Otherwise, as you're tightening the screw, you'll be bending the back of the cabinet out of shape and it will fail long before its time. You won't need to cover the entire back of the cabinet, just a couple of strips, maybe 3-4" wide, through which you'll run your screws. One strip at the top, one at the bottom.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Aug 22, 2023 at 12:32
  • The trick here will be finding a screw that will hole through the "ceiling" (which is likely to be particleboard) without the pointy end sticking up. Maybe OP DGAF. Or might end up needing to use an all-the-way-through machine screw and nut.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Aug 22, 2023 at 12:36

Screw into studs, and screw the center section to the side pieces.

  • one screw into stud? Naw, man. It ain't that kinda party. 15"... sure; this is half way to 15'. So like four studs. Using washers, 3" deck screws, and into the one-by that makes up the top rail on the inside. Then some screws into the top rail, through the top. No top rail? Then make a top rail, x3.
    – Mazura
    Commented Aug 23, 2023 at 2:54

Studs are always recommended over drywall anchors.

Drywall anchors just might hold for a baby, but wait three or four years and they will not hold.


Although your question asks for something 'more safe', the engineer in me wants to point out that the risk such anchors mitigate is from someone climbing up the unit, so is a moment acting around the fulcrum of the corner at the bottom, and as such the unit acts as a lever reducing the force acting on the anchor by the ratio of its height to the distance of baby's centre of gravity from the unit, about ten to one.

enter image description here

So pretty any type of anchor into the plasterboard will work for preventing the unit toppling if an infant tries to climb it, the cheap ones which come with flatpack furniture will suffice (I don't worry about it if I have to climb up some shelves so secured), but use a better one if that means you don't worry about it. A good screw into studding will hold for 50kgf/100lbf, which means a whole football team could climb on it without it toppling over.


I find steel-cable + brackets Something like this (Amazon) the most flexible option for anti-tip protection.


  • The bracket can be fixed to the wall and the furniture, even if the furniture doesn't sit flush to the wall
  • Steel cable is far stronger and far less likely to succumb to fatigue before your children are grown than plastic straps.
  • If you have a basic understanding of the angles involved, this system frees you from requiring a direct perpendicular anchor point. For instance, if your furniture sits between two studs, you can brace into the studs and diagonally out from the furniture and still have a quite robust hold diagram showing braces extending diagonally from furniture to two studs.
  • If you're moderately handy, you can buy a spool of wire and the brackets individually and make these yourself to whatever length you require. (Honestly, you probably don't even really need the fancy brackets and cotter pins. Simple cable clamps to put loops in the wire, and a protruding screw head or a sturdy hook bolt as anchor points is probably fine, but use your best judgment)
  • They're reusable, and can be temporarily disconnected

It occurred to me you could place something like carpeting foot protectors under the legs far from the wall, but not under the legs next to the wall. In this manner, the cabinet would always be leaning back into the wall.

This can be visualized with Pete Kirkham's drawing, with the little circle at the lower right imagined as being one of the foot protectors which raise the front of the cabinet, but not the rear next to the wall. The larger arrow at the top then shows the force direction of lean.

I used this technique to stabilize bookshelves that sat on carpeting with thick padding, though in that case, instead of foot protectors, I used a strip of wood that was as long as the bookshelves were wide.

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