If you have the installer's info sheet on the range it should give the wattage of each oven element. If it would give the resistance in Ohm of the elements, then the calculation below would not be necessary.
From the given power of an element in watts W you can calculate the resistance of the element. Measure the resistance of the old element that still works to check your work, then measure the resistance of the one which you think is not working.
For example, in my GE range the broil element is listed as 3400 W and the bake element 2500 W. The formula for resistance given the voltage V and the power P is R = V^2/P. So for 240 V, R = 57600 / P.
The calculated resistance of the broil element: R = 57600 / 3400 = 17 Ohm
The calculated resistance of the bake element: R = 57600 / 2500 = 23 Ohm
To estimate the correction for resistance measured cold versus resistance at operating temperature I pulled out the four surface burners and measured the resistance cold (FLUKE 115 TRUE RMS MULTIMETER).
The specs on the installer's sheet for the four surface elements in our GE exposed coil stove (two small surface elements and two large) given on the installer's sheet are: small 1325W 43 Ohm; large 2350W 25 Ohm.
I measured (Ohm) small#1 38.6; small#2 38.1; large#1 23.2; large#2 22.5. So overall the values of resistance measured cold are approx 90 % of the stated value. The large burner coils are 91 % and the small are 89 %.
So to correct the resistance measured cold to the resistance at operating temperature for comparison to specs one would divide the cold meaurement by 0.9.
This correction factor might only apply to the exposed coil type of resistance element. The resistance element type for a ceramic or glass top range might be different because those elements might operate at a higher temperature.