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I have a queen size IKEA bed frame that I want to make slats for as I don't like the curved LUROY slats that they come with. My father previously made bed slats for a single sized bed from 10 or so 2"x4" beams of a cheap hardware store wood.

The queen bed frame is 60" or so wide, so my thought was to do the same with generic lumber, but have the beams cut to the 60" width.

Alternatively I'm considering buying 12 1"x2" framing lumber beams instead as the 2x4 ones seem overkill.

Would the thinner slats be strong enough and are there any issues with putting a mattress on them if the slats aren't as wide?

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    1x2s might be okay for a young child who does not jump on the bed(has not been found yet). It does not take much weight to snap a 1x2 with only a foot or two of open span. Is there any supports in the centre or just at the sides? I might think of 1x2s or 1x3(4)s if the open span was only 20 or 30 inches.
    – crip659
    Jul 18 at 21:50
  • What don't you like about the curved slats? They are glued laminate engineered to do the exact job you want done. 1x2s will not perform as well. They will sag, and they will sag significantly or break if a heavy person stands on them or sits at the end of the bed. 2x4s will perform about as well, and will be heavier and cost more. I don't understand the point of this.
    – jay613
    Jul 19 at 1:13
  • I found the curved slats squeak with that particular model. I've had that exact bed before and fixed the squeaking by replacing the slats.
    – rovyko
    Jul 19 at 21:12
  • @crip659 - There is a support in the center, but I'll go with the 2x4s anyways. No children as of yet but I don't want the slats to snap in the process of getting there.
    – rovyko
    Jul 19 at 21:24

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You'll get good service from 2x4s -- no deflection to speak of and no risk of breakage at a low cost. (Buy 10' length, and you'll have no waste.)

Softwood 1x2, on the other hand, is likely to flex a lot and, as mentioned in the comment, could break relatively easily. (Parenthetically, I find it odd that they call it framing lumber, but I digress.)

If you really had to get the lower profile of a 1x2 or 1x3, go with a sturdy hardwood: beech, birch, maple, oak. (Pass on aspen/poplar, alder, balsa.)

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  • Definitely going with 2x4x10s based on this answer and comments. Thanks for saving me a headache with the 1x2s
    – rovyko
    Jul 19 at 21:14
  • I can see framing as in window/picture framing, but not house/structural. It will depend on the local use. I have heard poplar is decent once it is dried, and holds nails/screws well. This is from word of mouth and not tested.
    – crip659
    Jul 19 at 21:30

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