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Googling, I was surprised to find limited information on this. I only get "screw cabinets to wall".

However, I want to know:

What kind of screws? Normal, large, anchor, with wall plug, without?

Should I use some kind of washer or something similar so the chipboard doesn't crack and pull away from the wall easily?

Many thanks in advance.

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  • Are these base cabinets or wall/upper cabinets? How smooth is the brick - nice new & flat or old and rough and wavy? How about a picture of the wall in question - face on and from the side.
    – FreeMan
    Jul 17, 2023 at 0:30
  • the cabinets should include installation instructions
    – jsotola
    Jul 17, 2023 at 0:41
  • @FreeMan they are upper kitchen cabinets. The wall is old, but is plastered so smooth. Sorry don't have a pic handy
    – MeltingDog
    Jul 17, 2023 at 1:27
  • They probably do, @jsotola, and they probably read something like, "Attach the cabinets to the wall with screws. Use x number per box." That's pretty simple for attaching to studs, but not so obvious if you're attaching to a brick wall and don't know what kind of anchors to use.
    – FreeMan
    Jul 17, 2023 at 10:45
  • @jsotola surprisingly whilst the cabinets did have instructions to assemble, they mention nothing about attaching them to a wall. There's not even any indicators or holes where you're meant to mount the screws (and no additional hardware).
    – MeltingDog
    Jul 18, 2023 at 22:35

2 Answers 2

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I'd go with Rawlplugs, or your nation's equivalent.

The only real rule of thumb with these is you want the entire plug in the brickwork, not in the plaster, and your screw into the entirety of the plug. So make one exploratory hole first before deciding on your screw length.

rawlplugs

multicolour plugs

In rawl-plug speak, the brown ones are the biggest - go with those. The tree holding the plugs tells you the size of screw & drill to use, all you need to do is choose the correct length.

Holes need to be reasonably accurate, no conical pits or oversize holes from using a cheap DIY hammer drill that struggles. Rent an SDS drill if you want to get it right. SDS also have a depth stop, so every hole is the same depth.
BTW, there's a trick for getting the plugs right back into the brickwork. Once you've drilled your nice neat hole right to the back, you pull the drill out to just the plaster depth & waggle it a bit, jut to widen the plaster hole without touching the brick. Then, using an oversize screw or even a piece of dowel, you tap the plug right to the back of the hole with a hammer. If you hit it a bit hard & jam the screw into the plug a bit… well, it unscrews ;)

If the cupboard backs are reasonably sturdy [presumably the manufacturer has pre-drilled them in anticipation of this] then using standard counter-sunk screws, you shouldn't need washers. Driver tension set so the screws just pull level to the surface.

Someone is bound to tell you you need metal anchors. You don't.

As for screws; any 'modern' wood screw. Old wood screws used to taper all the way down the length, new ones are the same diameter the entire length, except for a small taper right at the end.

enter image description here

If you want an easier time of handling the drill-driver, get square, hex or torx heads, which never slip.

enter image description here enter image description here

If you're still unsure as to whether the frame will take the tension of counter-sunk screws, then get 'washer heads' instead. These, though, will sit proud of the surface, rather than pull flush.

enter image description here

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  • By "plaster" do you mean "mortar" (or is this one of those differences between Brit-speak and Yank-speak?)?
    – Huesmann
    Jul 17, 2023 at 12:17
  • @Huesmann - Not mortar. I think left pondians call it 'mud', or 'spackle' [& I don't know the exact difference between those, if there is one]. We have bonding or browning & skim coats of various types, but the generic cover-all term is 'plaster'. Here's a slightly over-complicated explanation - homehow.co.uk/blog/types-of-plaster
    – Tetsujin
    Jul 17, 2023 at 12:27
  • In that case, if the OP uses your style of anchor, s/he needs to ensure that the holes drilled are not in the mortar (Yank-speak) between bricks, because that stuff is quite friable and will not hold anchors well. Holes should be drilled into brick preferably in the middle of the brick. (Note, I am assuming the OP's "brick wall" means bare brick, and that it's a structural wall, not simply a brick facing.)
    – Huesmann
    Jul 17, 2023 at 12:31
  • I've never found it makes any practical difference, unless the mortar & plaster are both completely shot, which sometimes it can be in old builds, 100 years or so. Otherwise the pressure just keeps it all in place. If you suspect it's shot, then pumping it full of watered down PVA will hold it.
    – Tetsujin
    Jul 17, 2023 at 12:33
  • The problem is that drill bits can oversize the hole. Obviously you can use a smaller bit to account for excess hogging out of the hole, but consistency can be an issue.
    – Huesmann
    Jul 17, 2023 at 12:35
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I'd fit the so called "hanging brackets"enter image description here.

Good quality models allow adjustment in two or three dimensions. Event better: Get a large rail that covers the entire kitchen. So you will minimize different heights along adjacent cabinets.

The white thingy gets fitted on the upper inner corners of the cabinet and needs holes on the back plate to stick the "hook" out.

The rail gets attached to the wall. See the answer of @Tetsujin on how to do that.

Advantages: Allow fine adjustment after drilling.

Detriments: Needs some holes in the back of the cabinet.

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  • Good call. I'd considered that option but assumed they would just come with the cupboard package if that's what they intended. Mine are all hung like that… held on by rawlplugs ;)
    – Tetsujin
    Jul 17, 2023 at 9:19

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