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Thanks to your guy's help we managed to rip down the drywall and take out the old tub, our next mission however is the old plumbing behind the wall.

The plan is to change it out so it can be a bath/shower combo, and I'm pretty sure out tap will be one of those single tap (instead of the hot/cold seperate one that was in preciously), so I know on theory what I need to do, but I'm really not sure how the heck you remove the old plumbing. Feel like I'm making it way more difficult then it needs to be lol.

I'm thinking near the bottom, add in a shut off valve for both the hot and cold, then feed off of that. It also looks like in most cases you can now use the soft tubing, which I imagine is much easier to work with. Still trying to draft up a part list as well, not 100% sure what fitting I'll need.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! This has been a fun, of not a smidget stressful, learning experience, and you guys have already been fantastic! Thank-you! (Ps, I know the drywall cuts aren't great lol) enter image description here enter image description here

4 Answers 4

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The copper supply pipes, the easiest is to cut. There are three main types tubing/pipe cutters, regular(hard to use in tight spaces), mini, and rachet.

The drain pipes, use two good size pipe wrenches to unscrew the pipes and fittings.

Turning off the water and draining the supply pipes is good first step. If pipes cannot be drained, then a couple of old towels should be enough. Looking at a cup or two of water.

Can try to desolder the copper pipes, but it comes with the risk of fire and the pipes need to be drained completely, before the pipes will heat up enough.

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This would be a perfect time to learn about sweating copper pipes, but that's up to you. There are also sharkbite connectors and you have Pex piping. It's up to you. Unless you're going to have an access panel to the plumbing, shutoff valves would be a waste of time. You can get single handled valves with built in shutoff valves so I'd be looking at one of those.

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    I'm guessing that's a closet on the other side, so an access panel wouldn't be a terrible idea. The upside to shutoffs is that an issue can happen anywhere on the mixer and water can still be shut off. With the mixer shutoffs, they're only really good for cartridge changes. Jul 9, 2023 at 17:20
  • My guess would have been kitchen—not closet—with a corner cabinet and countertop outlet.
    – Huesmann
    Jul 10, 2023 at 12:53
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Your framing is likely to be in the way of the new shower valve since it will be higher than the tub mixer. You'll have to adjust the framing.

I go with the delta universal valves for showers and you can pick any delta trim kit later.

At a minimum, I'd get a plumber to solder copper to crimppex converters at the two riser connections. Avoid pro-press since it is really just a sharkbite in disguise and costs extra per connection and requires expensive tools. solder is a skill and doing it inside your walls has risk. once you have the pex adapter on you can easily learn/figure out the crimping pex portion of the plumbing and avoid having any sharkbites hidden in the wall.

For the supply plumbing you'll need 1/2" crimp rings, 1/2" crimp tool, 1/2" pex pipe, 1/2" couplings, 1/2" 90s, universal shower valve (typically delta or moen), 1/2 drop ear fitting.

You have many different tasks for this reno. I'd really suggest using a plumber to do the supply pipes / tub install so that you can focus on everything else. Everything else will already be a lot of learning. If you have a lot of time and patience taking on the plumbing piece is do-able as well.

How long have you budgeted to be without this bathroom?

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Consider a shower panel. You install nothing inside the wall, just terminate the cold and hot pipes at the correct location and finish the wall. The rest is trim, and you get, functionally, so much more for your money than you do when you buy all separate valve bodies and trims and heads and so on. And you'll never have to break tile to fix anything, because there is nothing to fix behind the tile.

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