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I have an underground sprinkler system and a t-joint broke and I'm wondering an easy way to fix it.

enter image description here

It is about a foot underground and 3/4" PVC. The ground is a very strong clay that shifts seasonally, and as you can see the force snapped the t-connector. Is there something better than cutting all three pipes and then using 3 straight connectors (presumable flexible ones or maybe just one flexible one?) and a new t-connector with short pieces of PVC to rebuild it?

I wanted to see if there was any trick to simplify it?

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  • you can probably do it with 1 tee and 1 coupling and a length of pvc. check youtube for the pvc bending with heat... irrigation people do it all the time to minimize digging and flex the straight pieces into a tee with little wiggle room. i've never seen anyone use a flex connection on irrigation (probably a cost thing). if this section is after the solonoid then even if it leaks a little that only happens when it is scheduled to run and at low pressure. Commented Jul 6, 2023 at 23:01
  • I don't think the amount of pipe flex required to get by with a single coupling is compatible with "without too much digging." OP, it's up to you whether you just dig a small area and use three couplings and a tee, or dig a large area and use one coupling and a tee. But if there's a lot of hydraulic force here, it might behoove you to construct a thrust block while you're in there anyway.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Jul 7, 2023 at 13:11
  • I edited out the references to digging, since the amount of digging required will depend on how much hole needs to be made to effect the repair. The kind of devices used to make the repair seem to me to be more pertinent to the question. Commented Jul 7, 2023 at 13:16
  • @Triplefault why would you edit my post and remove an important part? One of my goals is to avoid digging too much since it is extremely heavy clay and I want to avoid damaging the plants in the area.
    – ericf
    Commented Jul 8, 2023 at 0:16
  • I edited the digging references out because the hole has to be dug. We can't beam the repair in Star Trek style. :) If one digs a certain amount of hole and finds it's too small to effect the repair, the hole needs to be dug bigger. The real problem is shifting ground that broke the T, and how to repair the T so shifting ground doesn't break it again. If you really want the hole size digging aspect back in, please feel free to do so, but also please explain why the size of the hole relates to how to repair the T in your view of the project. Commented Jul 8, 2023 at 11:17

3 Answers 3

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Irrigation pipes break once in a while. I have my fair share of grief with them. I don't know of any way to avoid it.

For me, while repairing them, to avoid having to flex the pipes to force the couplers in, I use compression couplers (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-PVC-Compression-Coupling-511-43-34-34H/206667869). In your case, I would use 2 regular couplers for 2 sides (forming the 90-degree angle), attach the T. For the 3rd side (let's say the left side on your picture), you just need to dig an extra 6-7 inches on the left to expose enough pipe to let you slide the compression coupler. Then glue the T to the right and bottom pipes and slide the compression coupler back toward the T to cover the cut.

Hope this helps

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I have repaired 2 badly installed systems (75 YO female) and it is a pain for sure. If you want to try making the hole larger, maybe backfill it with a large grain sand or possibly pea gravel to allow for the movement. I understand about not wanting to destroy plantings, but from experience just dig the hole big enough! You can gently lift the plants and replant when you have all the work done. The only way I can see this working is cutting the damaged T away, getting a new T, a piece of PVC for the sections, 3 additional connectors to attach the new pieces and glue it all together again. It might have broke because it was originally put in to rigidly, maybe not completely level and maybe using sand to pad the repair will help with that. Just give it up, dig your hole big enough to work the issue, don't try to work this with the idea you can do it and not damage your landscaping. If you try, you might just find yourself repeating it all again. The one thing you can be sure of with irrigation systems is they are a constant pain. Good luck.

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Maybe could add a fernco flexible fitting to a section of the pipe. Said to work with PVC

enter image description here

Though doesn't support weight per se https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/161bvax/are_these_considered_a_permanent_fix/

There is also Fernco flexible Couplings like "proflex" or the like. (might be for above ground only?)

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    Fernco brand couplings like those pictured here are specified for maximum test pressure of just 4.3 PSI -- they're for non-pressure drain/waste/vent use, not for pressurized applications.
    – Greg Hill
    Commented Jul 31 at 0:12
  • Good to know, I didn't... :)
    – rogerdpack
    Commented Aug 7 at 6:49

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