D-hooks or cable for hanging heavy artwork, mirror? [closed]

Question

I have been doing this for about 17 years on the back of a heavy mirror. But I decided to read up on how to do it properly and people seem appalled that I would have used a heavy duty cable to hang this mirror all this time. They claim straight onto d-hooks was the way to go. So I wanted to know what the consensus is here from people who have more direct experience than on regular forums? I prefer not to use french cleats if possible, I don't want to put more screws into the back of this very old mirror.

(the wall is concrete masonry, I'll be using 4" long concrete screws.)

And here's how I have the back of the mirror set up. The mirror is about 75-80 years old but the cabling was done by me 17 years ago.

Answer 1

Depends on what you're hanging where and how, where the hanging points are relative to the rest of the object, whether you take the time to learn how to tie a picture-framer's knot and whether you're using hardware/cable/anchors designed for the load you're going to put on them.

Also on whether you are mounting directly to the wall or hanging the art from a gallery-style picture rail.

Also on whether you trust your measurements. Cable gives you some leeway for adjustment. I have a honkin' big mirror on my bedroom wall that I didn't just use cables for, I attached them to the frame with turnbuckles (hidden behind the frame) so I could fine-tune things until it was level.

Answer 2

Technically this is wire rope, not "cable", and quality of "picture wire" rope varies widely. I've had it snap under surprisingly light loads. Here are the problems with it for heavy loads:

• It's rarely load-rated, typically being low-grade imported metal of some sort.

• Load is deceiving. When suspending something at near right angles like we do with frames like this, load is multiplied manifold--it's not adequate to simply consider the weight of the frame. As the angle of the load approaches 90 degrees the stress on the rope approaches infinity. Therefore, some sag is critical, and more is better. Set the eyelets low enough to allow this.

• The various means by which we attach the rope to the eyelets weakens it. Sharp bends stretch and stress metal, reducing actual strength to a minor fraction of any initial load rating.

• Enough wraps must be made to prevent slippage, and they need to be short (not stretched out along the rope). You've done a good job with that.

Aside from those caveats, the screws (or nails) holding the eyelets must be up to the task, and the eyelet must be oriented parallel to the wire when under load. The way you have it on your frame is likely to twist right off the wood, as the load is applied at a sharp angle to the mounting axis.