Pigtail two hot wires from different locations at single pole switch?

Question

I replaced a ceiling fan with a ceiling fan/light combo in a bedroom. Previously the fan did not have a switch to control it. Power goes directly to the fan and was controlled by a pull cord. I ran 14/3 wire from the new fan/light to the location of an existing switch that controls a single outlet in the room (for a lamp).

Due to space limitations (stud spacing) I cannot fit a 3 gang switch box in the wall where the current switch that controls the outlet is located. To get around this, I want to use a single gang 3 switch combination (15 Amp 3-Rocker Combination Switch). I understand how the wiring should be done for the fan/light and outlet (if they each had there own separate switch); however, since there is only one "line" terminal for the three switches in the new 3 rocker combo switch, I would have to pigtail the hot coming from the ceiling fan/light with the hot coming from the outlet.

Is it acceptable to join two hot wires coming from different locations (on the same circuit) without a neutral present, or will this lead to some kind of neutral imbalance? The neutrals still exist and are properly wired at their respective locations (fan/light and outlet).

I've attached a rough sketch of what I would like to do.

Answer 1

What you have there is a ring circuit and that's illegal in the US because even when the switch to the receptacle is off, it's still getting power straight from the panel. (They use them everywhere in the UK, however, based on your outlet drawing, I'm presuming you're in the US.)

To fix that you have two choices:

1. Delete the heavy black and yellow hot/neutral from the box to the outlet.
   • This will leave you with a switched outlet, though you may need a 14/4 from the fan to the switch
2. Delete the switching of the outlet and the black & orange wires arcing across the top from the switch to the outlet.
   • This will leave you with two always-on outlets.
   • Since you now have a switched ceiling light, you no longer (according to code) need a switched receptacle into which you can plug a floor/table lamp.
   • This also means that you can use a double switch instead of the triple switch and relieve some of the congestion in the box.
   • If you do this, it's possible that one or both tabs on the receptacle have been broken off to allow for one always-on receptacle and one switched receptacle. Simply pig-tail the hot (and neutral if necessary) in the receptacle box and connect power to both hot-side screws.

---

One other thought:

"Due to space limitations (stud spacing) I cannot fit a 3 gang switch box..."

So, add a single- or double-gang box on the next stud over. You'll have to cut out a bit of drywall to drill a hole through the stud, but that'll allow you install a new work box (use metal, there are all sorts of reasons) and you can use regular toggle switches, big rectangular Decora™-style switches, even push-button switches should the mood strike. It'll also allow you to install a big box or two which always makes wiring easier.

If you do this, you will still need to eliminate your planned ring circuit.

Answer 2

If they're both separately hot from the same circuit, there is no advantage to bringing both to this point and tying them together, and possible disadvantage in risk of something being hot when you thought you disconnected it. Not Recommended.