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I recently had my siding replaced, which included all fascia, flashing, etc, and new gutters.

I notice that the drip edge is no longer securely against the gutters or fascia. In some cases, it seems to be pushing against the gutter parts and raising the shingles.

Should I get some white finishing nails, and go around nailing the drip to the gutters/fascia?

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    If you nail through the drip edge, it will provide an area of water penetrance which is exactly what this part is supposed to prevent. Why not ask the project manager for the siding crew if they can fix the problem?
    – AdamO
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 14:05
  • The janky appearance of the drip edge is certainly not nice to look at, but it's not necessarily a problem. My house has an aliuminium fascia that looks like a rabid beaver took to it, but it functions. I'm more worried where it looks flush to fascia in pic 2, and also the pitch of the roof on pic 3 - perhaps a trick of the eye, but it looks almost completely flat, add that hump in the equation and water is prone to just sit there which no asphalt shingle can prevent from screwing up your roof.
    – AdamO
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 14:08
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    @AdamO, thanks for the warning, I did not think about that. I hate to keep bugging these guys to come back for stuff. What would the siding crew do to fix the problem? Maybe some adhesive between the drip edge and fascia?
    – negacao
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 14:36
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    I think, @AdamO, that the "flat" roof in pic 3 is just a janky angle of the same bit as pic 2, which clearly has decent slope. Also, look at the fascia angle compared to the mortar lines in pic 3.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 15:05
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    Yes, pic 2 and 3 are the same roof - in pic 3 I was leaning out over the edge, sorry for the angle. Pic 1 is a different roof. In most of the places, the new fascia is thicker than the old - so the bend in the drip edge is not at the edge of the fascia board, and thus the bottom sticks out quite a bit. I can not bend it flat (e.g. right angle) without removing it and using a metal bender.
    – negacao
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 16:05

2 Answers 2

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The key word is recent. What you have shown to be concerned with are issues with this job and they should be corrected. Some things like the wavy drip edge is primarily an esthetic issue, but still speaks to the quality of work. The gutter anchor pushing up shingles is shameful and has to be corrected.

If the job was done 30 days or less definitely call the contractor back. If longer, look at you documents and see if you have a warranty on the work.

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  • Hum, some of the guys that I asked about it said it wasn't a big deal - it was their suggestion to use white finishing nails to secure the thing. Sounds like I shouldn't be listening to them. The company in question has not yet been paid - so I least have some leverage to say "fix it.". :( Was hoping it wouldn't come to that.
    – negacao
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 17:37
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    Read all others comments. Nails are not a good idea. Using finishing nails will not fix those drip edges. First if you add a nail you have opened a path for water to gat into the wood. This is something the flashing is supposed to guard against. Second if you add a nail to push one part in the part next to it will pop out. It should have been installed with no waves in the first place.
    – RMDman
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 17:55
  • Ah sorry, I was not suggesting that the comments are wrong and I should use nails - I was suggesting that the person who told me that was an idiot.
    – negacao
    Commented Jun 20, 2023 at 18:43
  • I see a couple of suggestions on the web to install a furring strip behind the drip edge - the contractor ridiculed the idea when I brought it up. Do you have any thoughts on it? I feel like I could slip a 1x2 behind most (all?) of the drip edges, and I like the idea of it being forcibly help away from the fascia. Just not sure how to secure said furring.
    – negacao
    Commented Jun 21, 2023 at 18:32
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    NO, don't add furring strips. The drip edge should be close to the facia without being tight, ( very small gap 1/8"). If the facia was clad in aluminum the drip edge can be tight to it. The fact that it a big gap speaks to the poor work.
    – RMDman
    Commented Jun 21, 2023 at 20:51
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No, don't add nails. They'll create leaks and make the issue worse from a visual standpoint. You'll have obvious dimples in the metal. With thermal expansion you may see moderate to severe buckling.

Just go up and flex the drip edge back into an acute angle. This will put tension in it and it'll stay tight to the fascia. Just lift it a bit and squeeze gently. Don't overdo this or you'll create "ski jumps", which can cause water backup.

In the cases where a gutter bracket is holding things up, use a snips to make a short vertical cut on each side of the bracket and bend that tab out slightly. Or lower the bracket (while maintaining adequate slope).

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  • Thanks @isherwood- I pretty clearly misunderstood how a drip edge was supposed to be installed. I initially thought it was supposed to be flat against the fascia, so the guy telling me to nail it in sounded reasonable. With your help, I have avoided shooting myself in the foot. (I wish I could accept both answers here, because they're both correct to me.)
    – negacao
    Commented Jun 22, 2023 at 10:12
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    Drip edge should be snug to the fascia, at least except for the little flare at the bottom. That's how it's all installed around here. Anyone suggesting that it shouldn't be probably hasn't installed any. Providing a slim gap is virtually impossible, and there should never be anything behind it anyway.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jun 22, 2023 at 12:30

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