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I need to move a 50A generator breaker in my service panel from one side to the other to match the configuration of the interlock switch. I will need another 12" of cable to move it where it needs to go. Replacing the #6 cable all the way back to the generator outlet is expensive and time-consuming, so I plan to splice the additional length. I have 3 solutions I know of that would pass inspection (although I don't plan on pulling a permit for this job, I want to follow best practices).

  • A. Wire nuts
  • B. Split-bolts, taped with electrical tape
  • C. Large solderless connectors

Thanks for any insight.

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  • Discard B. In the US we don't have as much experience with C, so I have no opinion beyond that.
    – keshlam
    May 26 at 20:30
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    What's your question? "Best" is subjective and off topic. It also depends on the nuances of the situation (available space, panel location, etc.). If you have three viable solutions, what can we say?
    – isherwood
    May 26 at 20:41
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    Connections clamped by a correctly-torqued screw should be more robust. This includes split bolts, but those take a fair amount of effort to properly shield and insulate the connection. They need something like 3M cambric fabric tape, then 3M self-fusing rubber splicing tape, then 3M super 33/88 on the outside. Choice C should also involve a screw lug rather than just push-in.
    – Armand
    May 27 at 0:08

2 Answers 2

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Probably safest for a neophyte:

Mac-Block or Polaris connectors of the correct AWG range, and remember that the screws need to be correctly torqued with a torque driver, neither too loose nor too tight.

NEXT time, remember first that "in a neat and workmanlike manner" does not mean "cut off too short so the breaker can't be moved." Tidily storing enough wire that this sort of thing is never a problem is far more workmanlike than having no slack. That's "neat, and then it's a problem."

Doing the job with correctly-sized wire nuts is certainly possible, but requires doing them right - if your wirenuts are prone to falling off without tape, this is probably not for you on 6 AWG wires, which will take serious effort to wire-nut right.

I don't consider split-bolts suitable for most people to install on anything but ground wires. Taping them correctly is an art, taping them incorrectly leads to tape falling off and live parts being exposed.

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    None of those use solder, so the are all solderless, but if what you mean by "solderless connectors" is something like a Wago Leverlock, those seem to stop at 10 AWG according to their website - and knockoffs that may offer that size probably won't be listed. They might have a CE mark that means nothing. Ideal's push-in or lever products seem to top out at 12 AWG.
    – Ecnerwal
    May 26 at 21:30
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https://www.nsiindustries.com/product/2-port-black-multi-tap-pre-insulated-connector-1-0-14-awg-2/. If you shop around on line you can find them for less. They are simple to use and look decent when your finished. Remember what someone already said and use a torque measuring driver. Polaris 1/0 - 14 AWG

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