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I just bought a new house - first time homeowner, but long-time DIYer. Never worked with gas, though, so I wanted to get some expert eyes on my plan before I did anything stupid.

We are planning on redoing the kitchen, and we want to replace the electric stove with gas. Fortunately, it looks like the previous homeowners had a gas stove at one point and decided to replace it with electric. Unfortunately, the old gas line - which is valved and capped - doesn't end where we want the new range to go after the remodel.

Range is on the left currently

We want it on the right, next to the door

Range is currently on the left, we want it on the right, immediately next to the door - that's an external wall, which should make a nice range hood easier. Gas line looks like this:

Gas trunk with start of branch for old gas range

Gas branch ends too early

The trunk has a branch for the range between what MIGHT be the right joists, but it might need to go one over (where the HVAC ducting currently is).

My current plan is to:

Leave the T-junction branch, the 3" vertical piece, and the elbow. Disconnect the straight piece from there, and get a longer one to run it out to to the far wall where the range will be positioned. The piece is currently 5' or so long, and it'll need to be about 8' longer - so I'd be replacing it with a 13' pipe. Elbow at that end and point a new piece straight up through the floor, then shutoff valve, then use a flexible connection between that and the range.

The alternative is to leave the 5' pipe in place, add a shutoff valve there, then add the 8' pipe afterward. This would mean I don't have to put the valve behind the range, but if I finish the basement (also part of the plans... eventually) then I'd need an access panel there in the ceiling which would look weird.

My understanding is that a long flexible house can't traverse floors (so I can't buy a 10' flexible hose, attach to the current 5' pipe, and go straight up to the range) - for code references, I'm in Ohio.

If I have to go to the next gap over between joists, it'd be similar except I'd elbow sideways at the end of the long run, drill a hole through the joists to accept a small cross pipe, then elbow upward.

Is this a reasonable plan? As I understand from reading I'll want to use rectorseal on every joint, which makes sense. Some places suggested a pressurization test, where I pump it to 25psi or something with a bicycle pump, then leave it for 24 hours to ensure it stays pressurized (and do a soap/bubble test), any other good advice for general practice or for my specific plan to help calm nerves and increase WAF?

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4 Answers 4

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Your plan is fine, but you won't find a 13' pipe. Just add 8 feet to the existing 5' pipe (or use 10' and 3' pipes).

Rectorseal™ is a brand name, not a product. You'll want to use "pipe joint compound for gas".

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    Just be aware that doing your own gas is risky if you don't do it correctly and don't have the right equipment to check for leaks. Build-up of gas from a slow leak in a confined space can result in a house-destroying explosion.
    – Ian Goldby
    Commented Apr 21, 2023 at 15:30
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    In my state, gas is the one thing you can't mess with yourself. Check local laws before encouraging DIY.
    – fectin
    Commented Apr 21, 2023 at 22:30
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For what it's worth, I think you could use CSST (yellow flex pipe, not to be confused with Flexible Appliance Connectors, which also flexes and is yellow) from the existing pipe. I'm not familiar with Ohio code, so I'd check before doing that. The general caution they have about CSST is that it needs to be electrically bonded. Since you have rigid metal piping already, it is almost certainly bonded.

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Not a complete answer but some details to pay attention to (I did something similar, though with a plumber):

  • Put the valve in the kitchen where it will be most useful.
  • Use standoffs to attach the pipe firmly to the wall or floor just above or below the kitchen floor so that moving the range and operating the valve won't stress the pipe fittings.
  • Make sure the valve is the right distance from the wall -- as near as possible while making it easy to put a wrench around the fittings.
  • Make sure the valve is the right height. Your range will have an alcove at the rear bottom to accommodate the valve and hose. I think it's usually 6 inches high and the entire width of the appliance, but you should check, especially if you know which one you plan to buy.
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If this was in the UK, then the work you are planning would be illegal. Only qualified (Corgi registered) gas engineers are allowed to make changes to gas pipes.

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    @Andy: It's "Gas safe registered" now (the new name replaced "Corgi registered" in about 2009).
    – psmears
    Commented Apr 21, 2023 at 10:24
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    This doesn't answer the question. Please take the tour.
    – isherwood
    Commented Apr 21, 2023 at 12:42
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    @isherwood It answers it for anyone from the UK who has the same question. So I think it's worth retaining the answer here, albeit not as the accepted answer of course. (It might also make someone from the USA think twice about whether they have the skill and equipment to carry out their own gas work safely.)
    – Ian Goldby
    Commented Apr 21, 2023 at 15:26
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    I would sincerely hope that someone who was a qualified engineer wouldn't feel the need to ask internet strangers for "expert eyes on [their] plan before [they] do anything stupid."
    – Tiercelet
    Commented Apr 21, 2023 at 16:52
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    @isherwood, I'd suggest ANY answer should begin with, "Check your jurisdiction to determine if DIY gas line modifications are permitted or must be done by a licensed professional. Failure to comply so may put your house at risk of explosion, voiding of insurance or fines. Your local building code may impose further restrictions." I don't see that or a similar general warning in "the tour".
    – Ian W
    Commented Apr 22, 2023 at 4:14

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